Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have got a set of 18" Rims with Pirelli P Zero Rosso Tyres 265/35/18's or Stock 300zx 16's with Bridgestone potenzas 205/50/16's both tyres are good on both set's of rims just wondering if it's worth putting on the 16's and giving them ago better profile but alot thinner or should i just put some semi slicks on the 16's? Really want to improve my 60ft my car either bogs down off the line or just spins. Anyone have any ideas that might help me get off the line? cheers

it all depends on you. if you want realism run the 18 inch tyres as you would on the street. if your after a 1/4 mile time only run semi slicks. manual or auto?

id like to see you run as i will roughly have the same sort of power.

and good luck at the drags :action-smiley-069:

Edited by R33GOD

thinking about going tomorrow night at calder best time so far is 13.5 when i was running about 215rwkw with the best of a 2.45 60ft which is killing me, im really happy with the shifts once i get off the line but my main problem is my launch last time i ran the 18's, but bought the 16's last week and was going to put semis on them but they have brand new bridgestone potenza's g3's on it so i thought i might give them a go. don't know what to do

car is Auto thats what makes it so hard to get off the line but it really starts to pull midtrack last time i got a 108mph and now with a bit more in it and a better launch i'm hoping to see 12's thats been my aim for a while i know the car's got it in it just my takeoff's are shocking.

i'm picking up some RE55's semi slicks tonight getting them off a mate basically brand new i still cant see me getting a good 60ft maybe i might have to get a Hi stall torque converter or something, it seems that if my wheels start to spin and i jump of the brake it just spins and it kills my 60ft but if i stall it till it just wants to break traction it has a little hesitation then goes which still kills my 60ft but it doesnt snap and go which i would like it too. but i found thats the better way to do it just got to sort out the little hesitation.

low 12's would be excellent but don't think there is any chance of that happening unless i put a transbrake and torque converter in, i would love to leave the line with positive boost pressure but i have tried all different launch tecniques but like i said either to much wheel spin or it bogs down, Fark i love auto's but i hate them at the same time.

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...