idle

[cav]

my gts-t r33 seems to be idling high, this has happened since i cleaned the throttle body and reset the tps. Also it is hard to start since i cleaned the injectors, has any body had this problem.

[Ash]

Guess not.

is it just when the car is cold, my car when i start it cold runs at 2000 revs for a coupple of seconds then drops down to about 1250, then as the engine warms up it drops to about 650 - 700idle.

[Sumo]

My car is the same as Ash's, It idles pretty high till it warms up

[Guest RedLineGTR]

its just how it is.

[Bl4cK32]

new cars have an electric choke. ecu senses cars temp and keeps up revs till warm to prevent stalling.

[JimX]

Skylines have chokes?

[Busky2k]

Nah I wouldnt call it an electric choke.. but basically the ECU runs the engine richer and bleeds more air past the throttle blades, which is like the choke of the old.. =)

[Miss*33]

Mine idles as a5h said too, revs really high until it warms up.

My car was running really sluggishly (had been since I bought it and no one could find the problem), we changed the plugs and cleaned the throttle body, which mind u, was caked with black sludgy crap and its idled higher and lost its flat spot since then!

It may have made a little bit of a difference when u cleaned the throttle body out..?

[YEE-HAA]

Well I have checked the ecu codes, and disconnected the battery to no avail. The ecu came up with code 55; admittedly it was after i disconnected the battery and drove it for two days with the same problem. I did notice the vacuum hose coming off my aftermarket BOV was slightly cracked, so started wondering if this was the cause of the problems? Any thoughts????

I have also checked the TPS, 0 ohms result, and the AAC valve had continuity.

I remember seeing how to adjust the idle via the ecu, but I cant remember where I saw it?? Anyone know of this????

The only other thing I can think of doing is adjusting the AAC valve screw, but Im worried it will alter the air/fuel mixture to its detriment, even though it only controls the air flow.

Any help greatly appreciated.

[blind_elk]

Its supposed to idle high when the engine's cold.

There's a screw on the back of the ECU - you have to remove the ECU to get at it. But its for very fine adjustments.

Adjust the AAC screw, it won't affect the A/F ratio - its only effective at idle, it allows air to bypass the (closed) throttle.

[YBSLO4]

This is normal to idle at around 1500rpm when cold then to drop around 650-800 is okay anything higher should be checked... They all do this, they are meant to. Its programmed in them to warm the engine and get the oil flowing better on startup cos of the turbo, rather than having to wait for the car to warm itself over a longer time thsi helps it get things rolling.

[Evil]

Originally posted by YBSLO4

This is normal to idle at around 1500rpm when cold then to drop around 650-800 is okay anything higher should be checked... They all do this, they are meant to. Its programmed in them to warm the engine and get the oil flowing better on startup cos of the turbo, rather than having to wait for the car to warm itself over a longer time thsi helps it get things rolling.

That's right. There are a lot of cars that act the same way. It warms the car up faster. You should not give a turbo car heaps when it is cold (any car for that matter). :burnout:

[Ash]

yeah i try not to give my car heaps when its cold, the only thing is i have to drive up one really long steep bastard of a hill so often it runs boost when cold... but it works two fold, after some hard driving i have a long steep hill to roll down while i cool the turbo

[BOOSTD]

1.Turn it all the way in the direction that your idle drops

2.slowly turn it up untill you idle starts to increase then back it of a tad so its just before that point.

That should be pretty much spot on.

*don't adjust your idle up valve if your car was idling fine b4.*

[YEE-HAA]

After much deliberation, I adjusted the screw on the AAC Valve, to no avail. It only dropped a couple of hundred revs. I then decided to pull off the whole air regulator with the AAC Valve on it, to find that the AAC is stuck partially open in its unmounted state, (but still bolted to the air regulator.) I put 12v to it, and it didnt work as it should,(contracting the inner pin), and even after plugging it straight onto the end of the wiring loom, it still did nothing. I figure this is what is causing the high idle. Does anyone agree with my theory??

Thanks in advance.

Just as a matter of interest. my mates manual 33 idles at 1000 rpm cold and drops to around 700-800rpm once warm.

[BOOSTD]

Clean it with carbie cleaner, re-install it an adjust with the plug disconnected- if you don't the computer counter adjusts. adjust for what ever you car is idling at normally--hence when you re-connect the plug the idle doesn't change.

[YEE-HAA]

I did adjust it with plug disconnected, with above results, which is why I pulled it off again. I cleaned it with carby cleaner intially, hence the above problems. It only had a small amount of carbon in there & the throttle body BTW.

Any other thoughts???

[YEE-HAA]

I have since swapped the whole AAC valve assembly with my mates, whose car idles at a respectable 1000rpm cold. This did not change anything at all on my car. I have been told it could be the TPS, even though it measured 0 ohms, the variable resistor may need to be readjusted. Anyone one else done this before on a Series 1 33??

Thanks in advance!!

(

[BOOSTD]

I adjust my TPS for an output of 0.43 volts

[Scotty]

Hi Guys,

Hoping you could help with my problem also. I know high idle at start is normal, but can somebody please explain this. Drove home tonight, and once I pulled into the driveway, in idle, the tacho constantly fluctuated between 800 and 600 rpm. just back and forth. Should I be concerned?

Thanks guys