Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

G'day All,

I've just fitted a pretty flash alarm to my S1 RS4 with remote start etc.. and it all works great EXCEPT the alarm requires a source to splice into which provides 12V once the engine is running to stop the ignition sequence. The obvious source was the alternator so I wired it into there, but the alternator provides voltage so quickly that it only gets the chance to turn over about twice before cutting the starter. This works great when the engine is warm, but when cold, or has been sitting, it requires a couple of extra turns to get firing and the alarm kills the starter before it's fully kicked over.

So which wire would give 12V when the engine is fully up and going? The manual suggests wrapping it around the coil (or coil pack I guess) but that seems messy. I assume there would be a signal wire coming back from a relay somewhere under the bonet? A charging regulator? Any ideas at all?

or is there any way of putting something in line like a big capacitor or similar from the alternator to delay the power through the wire?

Sorry, I'm far from an electrical guru!

Thanks for any help :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/182153-wiringalarm-question/
Share on other sites

Hi Michael,

Sorry I don't have an answer for you but just wanted to say congrats on getting an alarm in there yourself! I tried and failed then sent to the experts, and it took them 8 hours to get the job done so I think you've done pretty well.

Did you manage to tap into the existing central locking system? That was the main issue we had and so did the installer, they ended up sticking an extra motor in the drivers door to run it (and tried to tell me there wasn't one in there already).

Maybe a relay off the starter motor? Not sure if that makes sense though as it would be 12v live whenever the starter was not cranking???

Get over to the Car Audio and Security section, some good advise in there, look for Chris Rogers, he is usually a great help where he can be.

Cheers

Luke

What about the stereo's constant 12v wire?

12V constant would mean the starter would never kick over.. I need 12V only when the engine is running, not when the ignition is on/off etc.. hmmn..!

It was a bit of work, I swapped over the drivers door motor as it wouldn't properly trigger on negative, but that was only $10.. but lots of wiring!

12V constant would mean the starter would never kick over.. I need 12V only when the engine is running, not when the ignition is on/off etc.. hmmn..!

It was a bit of work, I swapped over the drivers door motor as it wouldn't properly trigger on negative, but that was only $10.. but lots of wiring!

entirely too much effort. 5 min with a soldering iron fixes that bit.

clarify what you are asking please.

entirely too much effort. 5 min with a soldering iron fixes that bit.

clarify what you are asking please.

Just for a wire which delivers 12V ONLY while the engine is running, not when it's stopped or starting or the ignition is on, ONLY when running.. ;)

so you are doing a remote start??

I thought this was pretty obvious in my first post - that's the whole reason I need the source wire. The remote start works great already but just needs a slightly longer trigger to get going when it's really cold (canberra cold).

do it off RPM. that way the car is up to idle before it shuts down. most of them have this feature and crank times on the starter anyway so they can be varied. if you look up a 33 power FC pinout it will give you the RPM sig. from memory its yel/red on the cluster.

do it off RPM. that way the car is up to idle before it shuts down. most of them have this feature and crank times on the starter anyway so they can be varied. if you look up a 33 power FC pinout it will give you the RPM sig. from memory its yel/red on the cluster.

thanks chris :P sounds like the go. out of interest, if it's the yellow/red coming into the ECU, where does that signal come from under the engine bay? or is it coming OUT of the ecu to the tacho? just thinking of an under bonnet connection if possible, but really not a problem to run it across to the ecu either..

Cheers,

Michael

Did you manage to tap into the existing central locking system? That was the main issue we had and so did the installer, they ended up sticking an extra motor in the drivers door to run it (and tried to tell me there wasn't one in there already).

That is a pretty common thing that needs to be done when installing an alarm in skylines/stageas and various other cars for that matter.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
    • I haven’t yet cut the chassis, maybe I switch to a reverse flow. I’ve got the Intercooler mounted as I already had it but not cut yet. Might have to speak to an engineer 
    • Yes that’s another issue, I always have a front mount, plus will be turbo plus intake will big hasstle. I’ve been told if it looks stock they’re fine with it by a couple others who have done it ahahaha.    I know @Kinkstaah said the stock gtt airbox is limiting but I might just have to do that to avoid a defect so it atleast looks legit. Or an enclosed pod so it’s hidden away and feed air from the snorkel and below Intercooler holes like kinstaah mentioned. Hmm what to do 
×
×
  • Create New...