Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Everything is possible, but at the end of the day why would you?

It would make the car so nose heavy that the only good thing it would be useful for is drag racing (i.e. Going straight) By the time you dump a whole bunch of money into the project, It would have been cheaper either to buy a GTR, or modify the krap outta the SR. But at the end of the day its you car and your money.

Speed costs money, how fast do you want to go?

  • 2 weeks later...
Originally posted by RESESPIECES05

Your wrong about the nose being too heavy. Cause over here in america were starting to do the swaps. There is only about a 70 pound difference. Plus you get mid 13's just stock.

JDM spec S15's are only a tenth or two off from mid 13 sec passes as well.

i hear that advan's charge 20,000AUD for the conversion.

you can do alot of things to an sr20 with that money.

Well, another thing that's good about the skyline engine is that it provides more low down torque because of the bigger displacement. Also, you can fit a larger turbo on it and it won't be no where near as laggy as a 2L SR20.

But really, it's gonna cost so much to buy and install an RB26 in an s15. I really don't think it's worth it unless you have loads of cash to blow. Nonetheless, an RB26 s15 would fly! :)

How many people have skyline engines in an s15? And why did they do it?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
×
×
  • Create New...