Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Today I started my car and both my ABS and 4WD light stayed on while driving. I got fuel, restarted the car and they were both still on. I can only assume something has happened in the past few days for this to happen... what are the normal symptoms of this?

Also, I can hear an intermittent friction sound coming from the front left of the car, as I speed up it gets faster. Its nothing to do with the pads being to close to the discs I don't think... could this be an ABS problem noise?

Recent work done to the car included a HICAS lock bar and new clutch.

any help appreciated

Tom

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/182325-abs-and-4wd-light-on/
Share on other sites

Try checking over all your fluid levels. The warning light can come up if your brake fluid is low. Don't forget to check the fluid in the boot aswell.

Bit obvious stuff to check, but you never know. Goodluck

when the 4wd light is on the attessa computer in the boot will be flashing an error code - go and check how many times it is flashing against the list in the 32 gtr workshop manual. If it is related to the abs sensor it will show that error #

I found a thread on here about the same type of issues...

forgot to mention I have 1994 R33 GTS4,

One thing I noticed is once the 4WD and ABS led flashes the SLIP led doesnt work anymore, normally it flashes when the rear wheels loos control or slips. which means it has switched back to RWD from 4WD.mmmmmmm, No I dont know why ABS led allways cometogether with 4WD??????

Maybe a electrical problem..................

Sounds like you rear ABS sensor/s are faulty or damaged.

Both ABS and ATTESSA systems use the ABS sensors to determine slip/skiding/etc.

I think it might be the G sensor or ABS sensor for me.... How much is a new G-sensor?

you don't want to know lol

error 16 is lateral g sensor so at least it is nice and specific.

Start with the g sensor unit itself, it has a small window on the front that goes red if the sensor is screwed.

much more likely it is just a wiring issue though.

there are 2 plugs on the g sensor, one 4 pin, one 6 pin, you need the 6 pin. I don't have the colours in front of me but in at the bottom of that plug (the 3 wires), centre is earth, one is 8v in and the other is signal out. Make sure you have power at one of the outside wires. More details on CH66 onwards in the gtr service manual its worthi finding a copy

I removed both of the plugs connected to the Gravity sensor and plugged them back in, no wires are broken or disconnected or loose and the 4WD and ABS lights are still on. I am stumped with this one :)

Where are the speed sensors ali? How many are there? I am assuming this is different to the G sensors?!

there are 4 of them one for each wheel, im not sure where they all are, but i no there one close to the alernator, thats the one that wasnt plugedd in my car,

i am 100% certain that one speed sensors are f*ked or not pluged in i had the same problem

  • 5 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
×
×
  • Create New...