Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Wanted to see if anyone is using a Plenum Spacer here in Aus. What re your thoughts?

I installed mine today and "think" I can feel a difference, like it breathes a bit better.

I've also got a HKS air intake kit (HKS Premium Suction) on and with the spacer, it's definately a noticeable difference. It gives the car an awesome growl as well, even with the stock exhaust.

Only prob is that it sounds so good above 4k rpm, that my fuel is dissapearing before my eyes.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/182333-spacer-anyone-using-one/
Share on other sites

I was going to do a dyno before the HKS and the spacer, but didn't get a chance too.

Although not the same, it'd be interesting to compare it to a stcok V35 at a dyno day soon. But as said with both, I definately feel an improvement over stock.

I got the spacer through a group buy on 350z-tech.com. it's through a mob called Pure Innovation im the US, they claim 10 whp on dyno's but who knows. The part itself though was excellent quality wise.

10rwhp sounds a bit optimistic.

I've got a copy of one of the US spacers, and I think I pulled 5rwkW. My own experiences (5rwkw) aren't exactly indicative as I also run a Unichip and that gain includes a retune (I had the car tuned before the spacer install, and retuned after the spacer install and the next dyno run).

What I did notice is that the engine was more willing to breathe up top. I remember that, after the install and even before the tune, the car felt a bit more willing to rev.

If you can dyno it without an ECU tune and see if your mixtures are still safe then that's fine. It probably does lean the mixture out a little bit, but as OEMs run the cars a little rich from the factory for safety its not necessarily a bad thing. The gain on the spacer is so subtle that you'll probably only notice after you get used to it, then take it back out, and wonder why the engine feels a little flat up top.

It probably does lean the mixture out a little bit, but as OEMs run the cars a little rich from the factory for safety its not necessarily a bad thing.

i agree with this statement, but... i would argue that this leaning out of the mixtures accounts for all of its power gain...

and "it breathes better up top" doesn't mean much without a dyno graph. if i saw a torque increase up top on the dyno then i would gladly believe it, but i'm not at all convinced on this plenum spacer

personally i would rather get a unichip and do the same thing but properly

5rwkw between runs isn't very much, and can almost be accounted for within dyno inaccuracies. i know with my R32 when it was on the dyno each run would vary by 3rwkw

my experience with NAs is that the only real bang-for-buck gains are going to be in the exhaust and tune and that's about it. but this is only my experience i will gladly be shown otherwise in other people's experience.

sorry to be contentious with this issue, and to the thread starter, i'm glad you're happy with it

i think this is a good topic of discussion...

Waz, don't apologise mate, my sceptisism is the reason I wanted to get other peoples view.

It's not a massive job to put in and out so if I could be stuffed I might do a before and after dyno in teh future.

Cheers

Bobby

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
×
×
  • Create New...