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Intended Audience: R33 GTST users and maybe R32 GTST

Technical Level: Medium

Duration: 30mins - 2hrs

Effort: Easy

!!!Caution/Achtung/Attenzione!!!

Follow this guide at your own risk. You have been warned. We are not responsible for any actions you take. The instructions contained herein are only a guide and should be done with caution, If you doubt see your local mechanic. If you are unsure or are not confident don't do it.

This is a guide to remove an alterntor off a R33 GTST. Not sure if it's the same for r32 gtst or not. But I know for the GTR's you'll need to remove the plenum.

Step 1

Take battery off the car

Step 2

Take intercooler piping off. (Assuming it's a aftermarket one which is in the way of the alternator.

See pic (alternator circled in yellow) (This is taken from the drivers side view of the engine bay)

01.jpg

Remember once intercooler pipes are off to block them with some cloth or something to stop things flying into them.

Pic of the alternator from front of car looking down after intercooler pipes are taken off:

02.jpg

Step 3

Unplug the wires/plugs at the rear of the alternator:

1. This is the plug for the steering

2. Plug for ground

3. Use a 12 socket to remove the bolt off this to get it off. It is the wire that connects to the + of the battery.

03.jpg

There are also two more bolts at the back of the alternator. These are two smaller ones. The larger circle is easier to get to, however there is one on the otherside, opposite side. This you'll have to somehow put a spanner in there and get it out. or you can tilt the alternator to the side once you have taken it off the bracket.

04.jpg

Step 4

Undo the (1) bolt, but dont unscrew it all the way.

Undo the (2) bolt, but dont unscrew it all the way.

05.jpg

Step 5

Undo the bottom bolt slightly. Not all the way yet. Just enough so that the alternator can be pushed up so that the belt can be removed.

Use a 14mm socket for this. You might need to jack up the car for leverage, as it's easier to undo it from the bottom.

06.jpg

Step 6

Now you can undo the bolt (1) in Step 4.

When it is undone you can easily push the alternator up so that the alternator belt can be easily slipped off.

You can now remove the bolt (2) in Step 4 all off.

07.jpg

Step 7

Push the alternator down slight so it reveals the huge screw and washer thingy.

Basically you can remove the bolt shown in Step 5 now. When you remove it it is very long. Just pull it out.

To remove the alternator it self you'll need to remove the huge thick copper sleeve thingy, first. Then wedge it out. It is like a C clamp style clamping and mechanism.

08.jpg

Step 8

Dont forget the smaller bolts in Step 3 picture 2. They need to be removed as well. Since the alternator has more room, you can slide a spanner in there to get the rear ones easier.

09.jpg

Step 9

And there we have it, alternator is on the ground.

It's easier to take the alternator out by the bottom.

10.jpg

There done easy!

Took me ~2hrs the first time with lunch etc..

But 2nd time around it took me 30mins (Yea had two alternators die I think)

  • Thanks 1
  • 1 month later...

Did you use one off an R33 or did you find one from another model that fitted?

I need to replace mine but i want to buy a new one and was wondering if one off a different model nissan is the same.

Did you use one off an R33 or did you find one from another model that fitted?

I need to replace mine but i want to buy a new one and was wondering if one off a different model nissan is the same.

I got a 2nd hand one off another R33 gtst it was different to my one, possiblity it was a S2. But they are all the same for R33 GTSTs, Just looks a little different. This 2nd hand one I got, when I put it in the car didnt work. (It was dead)

So I got mine reconditioned and it works perfectly now.

Beware of getting 2nd hand ones, best to recondition your current one. ~$300 for it.

  • 3 months later...

sorry to hijack this post, but can i know what are the symptoms if the alternator is dying?(please)

Mine is registering a constant stall at night with the headlamps and aircond on. The throttle will stop responding momentary and will stall whenever i press the brake. Sometimes when this happens(in gear), i have to press the throttle harder for the car to stay alive. Whenever it stalls, i noticed that the voltage reading is only 12v. Suspected it was the alternator and sent the car for servicing. The foreman showed me that the alternator was barely charging so I got it swapped. Thinking that this would fix the problem but it has not. Although the frequency of the car stalling has gradually decreased but it is still happening and it always shows 12v whenever I turn the key to “on” after a stall.

I would also want to know if adding more grounding to the fuel pump would actually curb this? (Btw, I’m certainly sure it wasn’t my afm or bov causing the prob. )

  • 4 months later...
  • 2 months later...

Just did this job although i did it all from the top, the only other things i did was i removed the top radiator hose completely and removed the bottom hose from the engine and then bent it out of the way, was plenty of room to get it out of the top then.

Couple of notes though, i would not even consider doing the 2 bolts on the back when it is mounted, wait till it is off the bracket then it is easy, also pay attention to how the main wire and loom are angled when bolted on and make sure they go back on that way, i didn't and it made it difficult to line the alternator back up again because of the tension on the wires.

  • 2 years later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 year later...

sorry to resurrect an old thread...

but... how hard was it to get the belt back on? i havent looked under the hood yet, but i am assuming that there is some kind of tensioner, is it possible to get at it with a regular ratchet? do you need the special flat tool for this one? how hard was is to get leverage, i only ask because i dont have a very long ratchet, and i'd like to know what i need before i dive into this one.

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