Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

well with the impending sale of my R32 (yes, watch out for those interested in a worked R32 gtst auto!) i have for sale a few items that are taking up space in my garage. all items have pictures which are at the bottom:

V35 350GT wheels

- stud pattern is 5*114.3 (same an R32/R33/R34)

- fronts: 17*7.5 +30 with 225/50/17

- rears: 17*8 +33 with 235/50/17

- came off my V35 350GT when i bought it

- nissan centre caps

- NO gutter rash, scratches, or anything. they are in absolutely immaculate ondition - see for yourself

- 90% tread nankang tyres, completely roadworthy

price: SOLD

AFM from an rb20det

- this is a working AFM from an rb20

- will work on any rb20 or series 1 rb25

price: SOLD

AAC valve from an rb20det

- this is a working AAC valve from an rb20det

price: $20

Universal automatic shifter

- this was used on my R32 GTSt automatic for about 1-2 years

- GREDDY racing performance

- looks great, makes the interior look a million bucks!

price: SOLD

Universal hand brake handle cover

- silver

- unused

- looks bling ;)

price: $15

standard R32 side idicators + globes

- 2 * standard SIDE indicators off my R32 gtst

- orange with globes

price: SOLD

Justjap catch can

- has a few scratches and the rubber tubing (oil level indicator) has copped a bit of engine bay heat making it discoloured a bit

- silver

- filled with stockings and steel wool

- has removable top and bottom and plug to drain it if you need to

- looks great in any engine bay (i only had it as a bit of bling)

- comes with about 1m of hosing

price: $30

Beltronics laser detector

- Beltronice vector 945 radar detector

- these are >$500 new

- comes with car adaptor - 2 wires to be spliced in +12 and ground

- for more info: http://alatest.co.uk/apps/reviews/533535/-...Laser+Detector/

- note: these are legal to buy / sell in any australian state, and in some australian states are legal to use (please check your respective state yourself)

price: $90 + postage

all items are located in New Farm, Brisbane.

I am willing to ship small items at an extra expense but for large items like the wheels pickup is the only option

images for all items are below

to contact me, send a PM or reply here - i usually check the forums daily.

thanks,

Warren

post-2094-1188188471_thumb.jpg

post-2094-1188188478_thumb.jpg

post-2094-1188188486_thumb.jpg

post-2094-1188188497_thumb.jpg

post-2094-1188188504_thumb.jpg

post-2094-1188188512_thumb.jpg

post-2094-1188188520_thumb.jpg

post-2094-1188188528_thumb.jpg

post-2094-1188188538_thumb.jpg

post-2094-1188188548_thumb.jpg

post-2094-1188188559_thumb.jpg

post-2094-1188188568_thumb.jpg

post-2094-1188188576_thumb.jpg

post-2094-1188188584_thumb.jpg

post-2094-1188188593_thumb.jpg

post-2094-1188188602_thumb.jpg

post-2094-1188188611_thumb.jpg

post-2094-1188188620_thumb.jpg

post-2094-1188188629_thumb.jpg

post-2094-1188188637_thumb.jpg

post-2094-1188188730_thumb.jpg

post-2094-1188188905_thumb.jpg

Edited by WazR32GTSt
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/182464-fs-r32-r33-v35-and-universal-parts/
Share on other sites

Hey Waz will that handbrake cover fit an R33

its a universal cover so yes

i never fitted it so its brand new

you need to remove your old cover and then this slides over the top of the core of the handbrake.

let me know if you're interested

cheers,

Warren

EDIT:

for some stupid reason i cannot find the beltronics car charger and maual, they are put together somewhere! argh!

i will have to hold off on the sale of it until i can find them

Warren

EDIT#2:

ok so i found the connector. it doesn't run off a battery it runs off the +12V source continuously, and it had been previously connected by being spliced into 12V from behind the dash

as a result, it doesn't have a cigarette lighter adaptor, rather a "+12V" and a "ground" wire which needs to be connected

also i can't find the maual

as a result of this, i've dropped the price of the beltronic unit to $90 plus postage

this is an absolute bargain for whoever gets in first..

cheers,

Warren

Edited by WazR32GTSt
wow that is cheap :)

seeing as i'll never use it and i would rather someone actually get to make some use of it i will let you have it for $20 but that's a once off special for you only.. :laugh:

haha looks like the exact same one i have.. prob with mine is its leaking. is urs leaking..?

i didn't have any leaks. when i sealed it up i used thread tape on the nut and inlet/outlet, and it came with rubber seals for the top/bottom. i put a bit of water into it and inverted it a few times - never had any leaks



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I drive the Tiguan much harder than the Skyline in all conditions, because it just grips and hooks, unlike the R33 shit box
    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
×
×
  • Create New...