Please Help Me!

[The White Knight]

Hey everyone,

I'm having a bit of trouble with my car. I give you the details then say what i have done. If you can help me it would be much appreciated.

OK, i have a skyline r33 gts-t 1996 series 2. It is pretty much stock engine wise. stock ecu/computer, blitz blow off valve, pod filter, you know, the basics. so this is why this is pissing me off. I've had the car for about 3 years now, and every now and then, maybe once every 4 months, i get this problem with the car stalling when idleing. Its really wierd because it normally only happens after long trips, like being in 5th gear for a while, then when i slow down and start to idle, the revs fluctuate between 0 and 1200rpm, then sometimes it will stall. It happened the worse the other day when it stalled 8 times in an underground carpark. it starts up again straight away though, so there's no problems there. sometimes it will stall and all the warning lights will come on (HICAS, etc) then it will start again without me doing anything. it will only be off for a second but its still wierd.

Now, for what i have done about it.

Today i took it to Gavin Woods Autotech on the coast and he datastreamed it and said that there was nothing wrong with it. so that to me rules out AFM and O2 sensor, which were 2 of my culprits. the most annoying thing is that my car is running perfect now.

so i think that the main options left are the BOV, pod, and intercooling pipe. I should also mension that when i first got the car, i blew the intercooler pipe off and put it back on myself. now i have to be honest, it wasn't the best fitting pipe, but i clamped it on pretty well, and it has never blown off since. i thought maybe there could be a tiny bit of air escaping/intaking from a little gap maybe, but then it would happen all the time right? i think i may also buy new hoses to attatch to the BOV, maybe there's something happening there.

I know there have been a fair few posts about stuff like this, but i have read them all and most seem to have something to do with the AFM, which in my case i know is fine. so if anyone could help and offer suggestions, it would help a lot.

Thanks everyone

[R31Nismoid]

Just sounds like a normal random stall due to ATMO BOV.

I'd change back to the factory item and then if the problem persists, its something else.

Just gotta narrow it down one by one

[HypeR33]

if it's the blitz dual drive, increase the spreing tension using the allen key.

I had the dual drive in the S15 and it would stall when stopping with the clutch in...wound up the tension and fixed the stalling completely, without affecting the function of the bov.

[The White Knight]

if it's the blitz dual drive, increase the spreing tension using the allen key.

I had the dual drive in the S15 and it would stall when stopping with the clutch in...wound up the tension and fixed the stalling completely, without affecting the function of the bov.

hey mate, do you increase the spring tention by winding the screw all the way in or winding it out? at the moment i think its out

thanks

[HypeR33]

if i remember correctly (it was a few years ago now) wind it anti-clockwise to increase the tension. You dont need to wind it all the way in....but you will need to give it a few rotations. Wind it in and go for a drive to make sure the valve is still opening enough to do it's job...all trial and error until you get it right.

I think I gave mine about 20 rotations, but the stalling was a lot more severe than what yours seems like. Mine would stall every stop if you didn't blip the throttle on some gear changes or when stopping (valve would open even when not on boost).

[The White Knight]

ok, i ended up winding it all the way in, but i honestly don't even know the difference between all the way in and all the way out. it seems to be a little looser all the way out, but not by a lot. i'm starting to wonder if the spring is even in there? its hard to find info on this BOV too

[HypeR33]

winding it in didn't seem to get harder to wind for me either...but it did fix the problem.

[The White Knight]

OK, i'll just see how she goes now. Thanks a lot for your help HypeR33, i really appreciate it

[TTT]

I still think that it's an AFM problem

it won't come up ont he diagnostics because it is working fine at the time of the diag test.

Can you:

1.) Borrow a working AFM from a mate and test it out on yours for a few days?

2.) remove your AFM and clean it as per instructions you can find in this forum?

the reason I think it's the AFM is due to these facts.

*Happens after long drive (as in after a constant flow of steady air)

*revs going from 0 - 1200rpm

I'd be interested to know if you get a violent cut too.

say after a long drive when it starts to play up, if you shift back a gear or so and give it a boot full.

[The White Knight]

I still think that it's an AFM problem

it won't come up ont he diagnostics because it is working fine at the time of the diag test.

Can you:

1.) Borrow a working AFM from a mate and test it out on yours for a few days?

2.) remove your AFM and clean it as per instructions you can find in this forum?

the reason I think it's the AFM is due to these facts.

*Happens after long drive (as in after a constant flow of steady air)

*revs going from 0 - 1200rpm

I'd be interested to know if you get a violent cut too.

say after a long drive when it starts to play up, if you shift back a gear or so and give it a boot full.

Hey mate,

thanks for your reply.

first of all, i probably can't borrow an AFM because all the people i know use their cars daily.

I will read up on how to clean the AFM in a second, so that i can do.

the cut outs are pretty normal, like i can feel the revs fluctuate, and i know that she will cut out soon enough. I can't really drop gears and smash it because it only happens when i'm idleing in the worst possible places, like in a drive thru, or underground carpark. anyway, the only thing i could do is nail in in first, but i'm never in the position to do that.

Edited September 7, 2007 by The White Knight