Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys.

Now i currently have a HKS 2835 Pro S waiting to be installed on the car...

Now i picked it up at a steal and have had a change of heart.

I really want an externally gated unit!

Now my question is, am i able to simply swap the rear housing's so it is no longer an internally gated unit?

Or isn't it that simple?

Changing to external is more of a personal preferance/semi wank factor... I mean who doesn't love gate?

Either any help/answers woudl be appreciated.

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/182620-another-hks-2835-question/
Share on other sites

Just sell the 2835 to me, and buy an externally gated one!

EDIT:

Okay you can change the exhaust housing to an externally gated one thats not a problem.

Or if you want to be a cheap-kunt you can weld the internal gate shut and run an ex gate. :)

Reason for wanting to go ex gate, other than for the scream on boost? If you dont have another reason stick to the internal gate!

Edited by abu
Okay you can change the exhaust housing to an externally gated one thats not a problem.

Or if you want to be a cheap-kunt you can weld the internal gate shut and run an ex gate. :)

Yeah i thought it could be done.

And no i dont want to be cheap at all, some of my mate were suggesting doing this but i flatly refused.

I'd happily sell it if i knew i could pick up another one easily and quickly!

Yeah i thought it could be done.

And no i dont want to be cheap at all, some of my mate were suggesting doing this but i flatly refused.

I'd happily sell it if i knew i could pick up another one easily and quickly!

Well if you want to get rid of it, PM me a rough price of what your chasing.

Thanks :P

I'd go external, as I went internal on a biger turbo and now I am having boost creep problems.

External is a much better way to control boost if you are planning to run more than 15 psi. And if you want over 250rwkw with that turbo, you'll definately nned to run more than 15psi.

I'd go external, as I went internal on a biger turbo and now I am having boost creep problems.

External is a much better way to control boost if you are planning to run more than 15 psi. And if you want over 250rwkw with that turbo, you'll definately nned to run more than 15psi.

Thats true.

External gate it known/prone to hold oost better than an internal gate setup, BUT that would be depending on the interal gate and boost controller setup I'd say..

There is plenty of people running up to 20psi on internaly gated turbo's such as high flows, and the boost holds fine.

Rb20 actuators are better at holding boost as they are designed to run stock 10psi, so they are easier to bleed, where as RB25 actuators are designed to run about 7psi?, so its a big harder to bleed higher boost with it.

Edited by abu
Hey Guys.

Now i currently have a HKS 2835 Pro S waiting to be installed on the car...

Now i picked it up at a steal and have had a change of heart.

I really want an externally gated unit!

Now my question is, am i able to simply swap the rear housing's so it is no longer an internally gated unit?

Or isn't it that simple?

Changing to external is more of a personal preferance/semi wank factor... I mean who doesn't love gate?

Either any help/answers woudl be appreciated.

Cheers

HKS non gated housings are all t2 flanged for this turbo. As it has a cropped t3 turbine you can't just slap a garrett turbine housing on there and expect it to be anything other than ordinary. so you can either braze up the internal gate, get a new manifold with a t2 size flange and a hks non gated turbine housing, or sell it and get a proper 3071 which will fit a t3 flanged manifold.

HKS non gated housings are all t2 flanged for this turbo. As it has a cropped t3 turbine you can't just slap a garrett turbine housing on there and expect it to be anything other than ordinary. so you can either braze up the internal gate, get a new manifold with a t2 size flange and a hks non gated turbine housing, or sell it and get a proper 3071 which will fit a t3 flanged manifold.

Hmmmmm

So in a nut shell what your saying is that it would be easier to find a original/genuine externally gated 2835? (anyone know where i can find one?)

not at all, but the problem with this turbo in ex gate is that the proper housing only has a t2 inlet flange. I'd say the only rb20/25 manifold that has this flange off the shelf will be a genuine hks one so lots of dollars. easiest is the 3071 as it has the same front end and an uncropped gt30 turbine with a t3 flanged inlet.

Reason for wanting to go ex gate, other than for the scream on boost? If you dont have another reason stick to the internal gate!

...as if you need another reason!!

Screamer all the way whatever it takes! Theres nothing like the sound..

Screamers are so good that im even going to the trouble of making one for my low mounts on my gtr!!

...ps who really cares about the legalities of the whole thing too...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good to hear. Hopefully you're happy enough not to notice when driving and just enjoy yourself.
    • I mean, most of us just love cars. Doesnt necessarily have to be a skyline.
    • Did you pick up a manual cluster to remove the position indicator?  (Pretty sure the 34 has the gear position in the cluster, but it's been a while)
    • Here is a recipe. Sonic blocks till you get one that has a good enough bore. Get a torque plate and block brace, use your choice of fasteners (arp ect) bolt the thing together empty, half fill it and let it cure. Release it when it has, go to a REPUTABLE RB Builder and get the thing line bored/honed and cylinder honed to size, then wash. Once its all clean and dandy, wash and blow it out again. Then again.  Assemble said engine to your desired clearances with oil control mods, gasket to suit desired CR/Squish ect. Attach your extended sump with proper trap door oil baffles and head drain plumbed to sump with a SUMP BREATHER SYSTEM. Build your front diff with a decent LSD, rebuild your transfer case with a few extra plates, more than likely replace your tailshaft centre bearing and tighten up the rear diff. Tune to minimise excessive midrange cylinder pressure (timing unless you like to split bores and rebuild engines) Enjoy your engine, but hate the fact you are now destroying engine mounts, gearboxes, gearbox mounts, diff output flanges and driveshafts, diff mounts, tailshafts and front CV's.   Disclaimer.... Ive never done any of the aforementioned stuff.......
    • 440s will support well over 400HP on petrol, which is a decent place to be for an RB20. 230+rwkW. Will be a safer bet for idle/low load. 550s would be nice for the extra headroom. I've made the same decision with mine (Neo25). 1000s are probably too big for the Nistuned ECU, so I have some smaller ones.
×
×
  • Create New...