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Gts-4 Question

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funkymonkey Grand Master

funkymonkey

Posted
Posted
Yeah i was thinking of doing something similar, but using the potentiometer, it's just the costs that are setting me back at the moment :D

Would love to turn it up to like 30-40% Front bias in the wet though and not have to worry about it stepping out slightly when I kick the throttle

you can't use a pot as easily as that as the AWD signal is a pulse which can only be turned on or off using a fuse/switch. there's a dongle thing you can buy (think duncan sold em) that uses a pot to vary the frequency and thereby adjust the "ratio" though.

skybarge Community Regular

skybarge

Posted
Posted

oh gutted, yeah i thought it was a bit complicated, I was trying to follow the autospeed plans, but not totally sure if they'll work yet :S

As for the dude asking about the switch above, all you need is a missile 12v switch and some 12v wire say 10ga or 8ga, either get a broken fuse and solder onto each fuse terminal to the switch or cut the wiring, I reckon use a broken fuse, that way it can be easily reversed at anytime ;)

heller44 Mentor

heller44

Posted
Posted

Probably wouldn't use a broken fuse, the fuse is needed for a reason, if you do you should put another in the start of the wiring to protect the harness. The fuse isn't made to protect the device it is supplying, but to protect the wiring going to the device. The fuse pops becauses of a fault, you don't want a short to chassis earth smoking up your car just because you couldn't be stuffed putting a fuse in there.. (my rant over.)

Only one fault with switching the line with the underbonnet fuse is that the attessa goes into fault mode when it can't trigger the motor. This requires a reset (drop of power) to the attessa module to get it running ok again. I've been lazy and haven't bothered but a momentary switch in the cab fuse circuit will drop the attessa power and reset it without having to turn the car off, just being at standstill.

james.

WhatBrake Collaborator

WhatBrake

Posted
Posted

Taking the AWD fuse out of an R32 is fine. It's fun. and you should do it. You dont need to purchase a no-brainer "kit" either. Simply tap into the wiring in the fuse box located to the left of the engine bay and then run a simple switch into the engine bay that will cut the circuit (hence like removing the fuse) and then with a flick engage the current again. The parts can be purchased from your local Dick Smith or Jaycar.

Take it easy.

R34GTFOUR Mentor

R34GTFOUR

Posted
Posted
Yeah i was thinking of doing something similar, but using the potentiometer, it's just the costs that are setting me back at the moment :)

Would love to turn it up to like 30-40% Front bias in the wet though and not have to worry about it stepping out slightly when I kick the throttle

or you could just go out and purchase a hks torque splitter

which gives you a switch to turn it RWD and it also gives you a knob you can turn to change the amount of torque that is sent to the front wheels, upto a constant 50% of the power can be sent to the front.

The hks torque splitter can also be used on the r33 and r34 models to increase the front torque, but you just cant put it in rwd mode like the r32 because of obvious reasons

R33GTS4 Apprentice

R33GTS4

Posted
Posted
The hks torque splitter can also be used on the r33 and r34 models to increase the front torque, but you just cant put it in rwd mode like the r32 because of obvious reasons

Ok im new to the skyline world & skyline mechanics, so i got a dumb Q for you all....I got a R33 gts4, why cant you switch it to rwd like the 32's is it because the 33's dont have the fuse / ability to install a switch or is because of what some of the others have said that it runs mainly in rwd and only switches to awd when it detects a loss of traction ??? or whats the obvious reasons ?? (sorry if this has been answered already)

blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted

Yes, it's been answered already. ALL Skylines with ATTESSA (AWD) run around in RWD mode until the sensors detect a loss of traction, or excessive G-forces during Accel / Decel / Cornering.

funkymonkey Grand Master

funkymonkey

Posted
Posted
or whats the obvious reasons ?? (sorry if this has been answered already)
In very simple terms (there's a lot more to it, but the main bit is that) in an R32's transfer case, the front shaft is totally disengaged when the circuit is broken (ie, switch or fused pulled out). Wheras in an R33 or Stagea the front drive shaft still remains partially engaged. This is one of the reasons why the AWD in the latter is more responsive (less time taken to engage), but it also means that you can't simply switch it off.

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