Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys i gotta s2 r33, i just had to replace all shocks bout 5000kms ago wit KYB exel G's.

im lookin at gettin some lowerd springs cause i wanna elimanate some body roll.

Im lookin at king springs they lower the car to where i want it (front350mm centre wheel to guard and 345mm back)

just wanting some feedback and/or experiences from guys who have these springs.by the way there not the super lows.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/182823-king-springs-body-roll/
Share on other sites

ive got the same KYB's and lowerd kings not the super lows though. not bad i think they are a progressive rate, the coils get tighter closer to the top. comfy to ride on uneven roads and pritty stable during a spirited hills run. i would recommend some decent bump stops too. i also have whiteline adjustable sway/roll bars front/back. seem ok for now.

ive got the same KYB's and lowerd kings not the super lows though. not bad i think they are a progressive rate, the coils get tighter closer to the top. comfy to ride on uneven roads and pritty stable during a spirited hills run. i would recommend some decent bump stops too. i also have whiteline adjustable sway/roll bars front/back. seem ok for now.

thanks for the feedback mate the guy at wholesale suspension blacktown told me they were going to be linear springs and the super lows were progressive rate, i haven't seen them yet so im not sure. maybe he has them mixed up.

thanks for the feedback mate the guy at wholesale suspension blacktown told me they were going to be linear springs and the super lows were progressive rate, i haven't seen them yet so im not sure. maybe he has them mixed up.

lol. or i do. i might have super lows then. the springs definatly look progressive rate. thinking about it i actually had to take em back the first time because the inner spring diamiter was too small. shop ordered in some more so this time they might have gotten the super lows..

Anti Roll bars (sway bars) are for reducing body roll. For springs to do it, they would be so heavy your teeth would fall out!

The Elk is correct. If you want handling performance and elimination of body roll get sway bars. These are the single best thing you can do to increase performance of your car. Lowering a car won't reduce body rool - it will simply roll from a lower center or if it rolls too much hit bumpstops (bad thing). If you want to lower it for appearance purposes, thats different.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...