Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

lol, surely he's kidding :unsure:

Followed the link..

Dude seems fairly serious. :S

That HAS to be THE most dodgiest mod of all lol.

That mod is no good if he also doesn't follow it up with a DIY sand porting of the head/manifold & bore out block to get more flow. A careful mix of 2/3 water & 1/3 sand poured through the intake & oil filler does wonders. Need to do the process twice though, first using <200-grit sand with low revs & then >200-grit while redlining it to smooth things out. :D:blink:. Using cement mix is okay but can be too coarse & what ever you do don't use the quick-drying kind.

See madaz, deluxe/dan/insert pauly hater here, cant help themselves...

no deluxe you git. of course I wouldnt do that, only the best for my car wherever I can help it.

Even if I did do it, I would have kept it a secret... this bloke meh... thinks hes starting some sort of revolution.

:(:)

I surprised that it didn't shit itself the first time it boost.

Very very dodgy, but hey if you have an mx-6 you might as well mess around with it, it will blow up sooner or later.

my mates Mx6 is making 154FWKW and 550Nm

See madaz, deluxe/dan/insert pauly hater here, cant help themselves...

no deluxe you git. of course I wouldnt do that, only the best for my car wherever I can help it.

Even if I did do it, I would have kept it a secret... this bloke meh... thinks hes starting some sort of revolution.

aye i aint no Pauly hater i will however pull you up if you say silly thing or start acting the goose

can someone confirm they are actually industrial welds? It looks like he has just used a butane soldering iron and stuck some solder on the edges of the fins.
Probably just a shitty arc job with almost zero penetration.
my mates Mx6 is making 154FWKW and 550Nm
550Nm, maybe in 1st gear, those numbers don't match unless he transplanted a tractor engine in there. Edited by Oosh
Probably just a shitty arc job with almost zero penetration.

550Nm, maybe in 1st gear, those numbers don't match unless he transplanted a tractor engine in there.

ill get his dyno chart around the ECU has been modified got walbro 255lt fuel fump and was running 22psi ;)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • perhaps i should have mentioned, I plugged the unit in before i handed over to the electronics repair shop to see what damaged had been caused and the unit worked (ac controls, rear demister etc) bar the lights behind the lcd. i would assume that the diode was only to control lighting and didnt harm anything else i got the unit back from the electronics repair shop and all is well (to a point). The lights are back on and ac controls are working. im still paranoid as i beleive the repairer just put in any zener diode he could find and admitted asking chatgpt if its compatible   i do however have another issue... sometimes when i turn the ignition on, the climate control unit now goes through a diagnostics procedure which normally occurs when you disconnect and reconnect but this may be due to the below   to top everything off, and feel free to shoot me as im just about to do it myself anyway, while i was checking the newly repaired board by plugging in the climate control unit bare without the housing, i believe i may have shorted it on the headunit surround. Climate control unit still works but now the keyless entry doesnt work along with the dome light not turning on when you open the door. to add to this tricky situation, when you start the car and remove the key ( i have a turbo timer so car remains on) the keyless entry works. the dome light also works when you switch to the on position. fuses were checked and all ok ive deduced that the short somehow has messed with the smart entry control module as that is what controls the keyless entry and dome light on door opening   you guys wouldnt happen to have any experience with that topic lmao... im only laughing as its all i can do right now my self diagnosed adhd always gets me in a situation as i have no patience and want to get everything done in shortest amount of time as possible often ignoring crucial steps such as disconnecting battery when stuffing around with electronics or even placing a simple rag over the metallic headunit surround when placing a live pcb board on top of it   FML
    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
×
×
  • Create New...