Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

I have had this upgrade in mind for ages (R34 GTT manual). I have a few questions. I'm getting the Exedy Hyper single clutch installed next week by mate (who is also a honda mechanic) so thats sweet. I have the following items to install.

Clutch (new flywheel bolts, release bearing)

Apexi powerFc & controller

HKS 3037proS (have started making the custom down pipe)(also have some air intake mods to make)

z32 AFM and brand new plug

Sard 650cc's

blitz boost controller

Cambelt

general belts

and other bits and pieces. (need to get oil/water lines for the turbo - any suggetions)

_ already have exhaust, fuel pump and sard fuel reg.

Can I install the powerFc and complete the start up procedure on the same day as I remove the original turbo? I want the shop to do the rest. Can I install the powerFc then install the turbo/custom pipe and then start the car ? or install not start then tow to shop ? or install and drive? Any help welcomed ! I have read the project32 tutorial for some hinds. :D:D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/183131-my-r34-gtt-hks-3037pros-install/
Share on other sites

Your questions are a little hard to understand.

So you want to install the power fc and drive to the workshop to install all your parts, yes?

The power fc has a base map you can drive around on, but no boosting it as it wouldn't be tuned.

Regardless of what you do the fc will have to be tuned to your mods after they have been installed.

Hmmm if you keep standard injectors in there you should be able to drive it completely off boost to the workshop if its not too far on the standard FC map... just make sure you don't give it stick because everythin will be out of wack with that sized turbo on there!

it wont matter which order you install everything, as the power fc will be on the base map which wont change at all till you get it tuned

if you read up on how to set it up for new injectors in paul's faq, you may consider doing them too.

or plan B

forget about installing the pfc

install the turbo and dump pipe, then drive to the tuners on the standard ecu.

installing the pfc takes less then 3 minutes, and the tuner will need to reinitiate the idle learn once the injectors and afm are changed anyway, so let him put it in once everything is done.

install everything.. plug in pfc, plug in the figures for the the injectors and z32 afm... and drive to the workshop

i was driving around for a few weeks with base powerfc map with 740cc injectors, z32 afm and hks gt2835 pros. untill i could get it tune, just drive it normal and everything will be fine

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
    • There is a really fun solution to this problem, buy a Haltech (or ECU of your choice) and put the MAF in the bin.  I'm assuming your going to want more power in future, so you'll need to get the ECU at some stage. I'd put the new MAF money towards the new ECU. 
×
×
  • Create New...