Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi SAUers,

Just a quick question - I have wheels which have a polished lip, which when they got wet have left a stubborn water stain.

How do I remove these? I have tried normal detergent/jif and other mild cleaners without any luck, am affraid if i use more severe solutions, that they will deteriate the finish of the wheels.

What cleaning agent/solution sould I use?

(pic below - but the problem is hard to capture)

Cheers

Peter

post-9040-1188552099_thumb.jpg

post-9040-1188552156_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/183158-polished-lip-stains/
Share on other sites

septone ali-brite i think thats what its called. Its pink. Like $15 for a 1L bottle i think. Get it from supercheap or any paint store even.

Wet tyres... pour some ali-brite into a container and use a small brush... like a dustpan brush and dip it then scrub your wheels... then hose it off. It worked wonders on my old rays i had. They are a 1991 wheel. And they were haggered. I got them shiny as with alibrite

Are you sure its a polished metal finish? could be coated in lacquer in which case metal polishes will do more harm than good, some alloys wheels have a stainless lip stuck over the cast alloy, and some have what they call a diamond cut surface with a lacquer over the top.

What make are they?

Are you sure its a polished metal finish? could be coated in lacquer in which case metal polishes will do more harm than good, some alloys wheels have a stainless lip stuck over the cast alloy, and some have what they call a diamond cut surface with a lacquer over the top.

What make are they?

they are Koya Race Teks (a few months old)

i presume that they are a polished metal lip!!!???

but now you have got me wondering......

what do you reckon?

Cheers

Peter

post-9040-1188772617_thumb.jpg

My track rims had a clear coated polished lip and had similar issues to yours plus the clear coat was coming away.

My solution was a bit more hardcore but it worked.

I set to it with 8oo grit wet and dry then 1500 wet and dry then when i had it where i wanted it i polished the crap out of it with metal polish. It now has a polished metal look rather than a bright chrome type finish and i prefer it.

It only takes about an hour or 2 per wheel.

they are Koya Race Teks (a few months old)

i presume that they are a polished metal lip!!!???

but now you have got me wondering......

what do you reckon?

Cheers

Peter

I couldn't really tell by the pics but after looking at there website they say there "Black & Machined Lip" so I'd say there diamond cut and lacquered, Like Finline said what happened is the lacquer has become chipped, you may not be able to see it but the tiniest chip can cause moisture to get under and attack the alloy, this gives the alloy a milky look, the only way to fix this is have them diamond cut again and re lacquered, expensive :)

This is why more and more wheel manufacturers are opting for the stuck on stainless lip, easier to maintain.

Finline - I did the same with my old SSR rims, give a much better finish but its a pain to keep them clean!! lol

Edited by DriftyR33
I couldn't really tell by the pics but after looking at there website they say there "Black & Machined Lip" so I'd say there diamond cut and lacquered, Like Finline said what happened is the lacquer has become chipped, you may not be able to see it but the tiniest chip can cause moisture to get under and attack the alloy, this gives the alloy a milky look, the only way to fix this is have them diamond cut again and re lacquered, expensive :)

This is why more and more wheel manufacturers are opting for the stuck on stainless lip, easier to maintain.

Finline - I did the same with my old SSR rims, give a much better finish but its a pain to keep them clean!! lol

Touche drifty. Mine are SSR's too. :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I wasn’t able to replicate the sound anymore. It was a one time sound so maybe it was just coincidence but it was like small pebbles being dropped in a coke can.   should I try cleaning the MAF? It could be it’s functioning but dirty? I don’t know.
    • Update 4: Hi all. The car drives again! Haven't driven for long, only to store it in the garage again, but the test drive was successful. The coolant and oil leaks seem to be fixed for now. Temps on the engine were also very good, while moving I never even saw 80C water during the approx. 30 minute drive. Ate up all the coolant in the reservoir though so will have to fill that even more when I go to the car next time. One thing that pisses me off is that the RPM gauge is still f**ked, I even resoldered the board twice and used copper paste on the silly screws that are used as connections. Next time I take it out I'll take apart the board and fit new components, I'll see if I can get a replacement IC for it.  I have an appointment set for 22nd of September for the engine tune to 370hp. Alignment also still needs to be done. My hope is that I can get all the legal stuff over with by the end of this season. Anyone of you have advice regarding intercoolers? Currently there is an APEXI core fitted, one of those weird hybrid ones, 600x270x76. I don't think it's bad but it's not new and now I still have the chance to change it now to legally include it in the paperwork. Only issue is that the only options that would arrive in time are a HKS Type R intercooler or generic Ebay spec intercoolers comparable to a JustJap one. Ideally I'd order a Plazmaman but it takes over a month to receive which would mean making the car legal has to wait until next season. Would love to hear some input on this. Same story for my injectors, the previous owner was a nunce and put ID 1050x on the engine. They work but are obviously not ideal at "normal" power levels. But I don't see a reason to change them unless the tuner says it's necessary. I read online before buying a different exhaust that the top secret style rear diffusers won't fit due to the size of the rear resonators. My buddy and I made it work by slightly "adjusting the shape" of the mounting bracket and making some spacers out of 3d print for the mounting bolts. Fits like a charm. Just putting this here in case someone has this problem. Even the hefty HKS Silent Hi Power rear can fits without hitting anything.
    • Well they got my money but they are not getting my gearbox ! 
    • It's needed for rolling idle up, and I think it is a decider on VCT also.
    • I mean, not really. Link ECU's can absolutely still have errors from the ECU thinking it's getting a sensor it's not expecting. I would imagine the speed at the ECU level in Nistune does absolutely nothing anyway? I assume the ECU does not do any fancy TC stuff with regards to front+rear wheel speed or anything of that like anyway. Someone who uses Nistune may be more fluent in it. 
×
×
  • Create New...