Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Dont have a R32 manual and wasnt able to find anything about it here in the forums...

So anyway, I am in the process of removing my gear box (32 gtr box) from my R32 GTS4. First time ive ever done this so need a bit of help on 1 or 2 things. The motor is already out so i dont have to worry about the bell housing side of things. Tonight i removed the shifter, then inspected the underside and then disconnected the clutch fork and slave, after that i removed the drive shaft from the transfer case to front diff. Then it started to get a little cold tonight so i am leaving the rest for tomorrow. Before i packed up though i noticed of coarse the speedo cable had to be disconnected, the tail shaft needs disconnecting and im aware there are supposed to be 2 plugs attatched somewhere... 1 is the reverse sensor and im not sure what the other one is supposed to be.

from my knowledge, that is all that needs to be disconnected EXCEPT for a hose i noticed. It connects to the tail of the gear box, about 1 inch directly above the gearbox to tail shaft universal joint. I'm not sure what its for, it was very dark tonight while i was working on it, so i tried tracing it back as far as i could, and it got to a point where i couldnt fit my hands any further. It appears to me like it connects to the rear diff? im pretty sure there is some sort of oil thats going to piss out everywhere if i pull this off?

Really i wanna know, what it is, and the best way to go about removing it without making too much of a mess :cheers: This way i can hopefully get the box out tomorrow before lunch time.

Thanks guys

On a GTR im pretty sure that line leads back to a hydraulic fluid reserve tank thats in the boot for the attessa. So I am guessin it will leak once u open it, best thing to maybe do is get a line lock and clamp the hose off before opening. U will lose a bit of fluid when u pull out the hose but it wont continue to keep falling out with the line lock clamping the hose....

You will probably have to bleed the whole system once u put it all back together as well.

Hopefully ur tail shaft bolts wont be as tight as mine were!!!!!!!

good luck with it all

yea ill have to follow that line more carefully in the sun light tomorrow. Might just bleed the attessa if thats where the hose actually leads, then take the hose off an aim it into a bucket to catch whats left. Yea i hope they arnt tight too.... ive had all sorts of trouble with my engine conversion project regarding tight bolts... especially on the turbo area :cheers: the bloody things snap so easy!

Yeah on the GTR that line goes to the hydraulic pump which sits on top of the diff cradle that runs the 4WD, removal will require rebleeding of the system which is not to hard, you'll have to get more fluid from nissan as it runs a special auto fluid, the other plug im fairly sure is for the neutral sensor. :cheers:

Its the attessa fluid , you will have to undo it and block the end of the pipe , don't worry blocking the gearbox side of it ( very little fluid will come out from there ).

When you re-install the box you will have to bleed the system otherwise your attessa will not work.

ok cheers guys. So besides the hose from the hydrolic pump (located above the rear diff cradle), to the tail of the gear box, where else should i expect to find attessa fluid lines? sump diff at the front? It's just that i gotta start putting this all back together soon an the information the better :D

nope just the hose at the rear of the gearbox. sounds like you've got everything else under control.

When you refill the attessa line use good quality ATF you don't need to use the nissan stuff in particular. One thing to watch out when you bleed the attessa - there are 2 bleed nipples, one at the gearbox and another up on top of the diff.

nope just the hose at the rear of the gearbox. sounds like you've got everything else under control.

When you refill the attessa line use good quality ATF you don't need to use the nissan stuff in particular. One thing to watch out when you bleed the attessa - there are 2 bleed nipples, one at the gearbox and another up on top of the diff.

cheers Duncan.

i have a SAU post saved somewhere on how to bleed the attessa. Looks like its time is near to come in useful for me. ATF or genuine nissan.... Hmmm... I dont know the prices yet... but my bet would be that im going to go with the ATF in the end, for the reasong being that nissan never fail to suprise me with the price tags they slap on thier products... Ill do my homework on the quality between the 2 and go from there.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
×
×
  • Create New...