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i thought you had a ross balancer? I guess you made the switch? which makes you well qualified to ask which is better! :)

no i had an N1 item on the last engine and N1 oil pump. Got a JUN oil pump this time, in an effort to keep the inner ring of it in one piece i got the 1000hp ATI item. People HARMONIC VIBRATION KILLS OIL PUMPS thats why std pumps live ok to 7000rpm N1's live ok at 8000rpm rev them any harder and they fail due to vibration. This is the reason you need to carefully choose your balancer.

Also i am sure that if people are able to run big HP figures using the std balancer, then even if i exceed over 600hp, the ATI balancer would still perform better than the factory one; Or would other problems (unknown to myself) occur ??

Can someone answer the above question?

I don't think i'll need/want to go above 350rwkw, as my car is set up for motorkhanas and the occasional track, so 350rwkw is probably already too much for a RWD car :yes:.

Can someone answer the above question?

I don't think i'll need/want to go above 350rwkw, as my car is set up for motorkhanas and the occasional track, so 350rwkw is probably already too much for a RWD car :yes:.

its not the power levels...its how hard you are going to rev it...whats you rev limit gonna be?

yes exacly. its the revs. but more so power aswell. if you have a look at the graph it clearly shows all are ok up to 7k. and after that the vibration goes of the chart.

not saying the ross one isnt any good. just they dont say anywhere that i can see that they actually absorb the vibrations.

and as for powerbond. wel.. i will take a pik of the race one thats used in v8 ute racing on a gen3 with FACTORY rev limit with reduced power from retarded ignition.

there is a good 6 degree whip going on at the crank. the circlip that holds it together has a nice grove with witness marks showing exacly how much its shaking.

its really just an insurance. just like buying a set of conrods. for that power leval. they might not break. but if they do...

Al i was absolutely committed to getting an aftermarket damper and spoke to ross and powerbond. both told me that on an RB26/30 revved to 7500 max in a non competition car (ie no requirement for a certified damper) the standard one is as good as anything. powerbond even said that the standard one is better at reducing torsional vibration than some lighter afermarket ones.

Dave i can appreciate that the ATI damper reduces torsional vibration the degree of deflection on that graph curve would presumably not be applicable to all engines? I might well be missing something.

Paul if the stock pumps live OK to 7000 then the redline of over 7000 in the RB26 is a bit scary!

Regards

its not the power levels...its how hard you are going to rev it...whats you rev limit gonna be?

I intend to have the rev limiter, on the rb30det, set to 8000rpm but this all depends on the dyno graph. I am using a GT3076 (GT30R) turbo, which is actually the smallest recommended turbo for my engine, so if the power dips well before 8000rpm there is obviously no point in reving the engine that hard.

So why does a lightened flywheel cause more vibrations than a std one?

Does it still have an effect if it is balanced?

There is a 600hp ATI balancer, which is obviously cheaper than the 1000hp. I paid about $600 for my ATI 600hp balancer, as i do not intend to make more than 350rwkw on my car.

Ok now I'm confuzzled. ATI website shows a 500hp damper and a 600-1000 hp unit. I'm not aware of a 500 hp damper hence my question re cutting it fine for 350 rwkw.

Cheers

  • 3 months later...
Ok now I'm confuzzled. ATI website shows a 500hp damper and a 600-1000 hp unit. I'm not aware of a 500 hp damper hence my question re cutting it fine for 350 rwkw.

Cheers

Sorry for the extremely late reply; unfortunately i didn't get any email notifications for this topic :D

Anyway, just checked the paperwork that came with my ATI balancer, as your comments raised concerns, but all is good.

From the ATI paperwork:

Street/drag use: 800hp MAX, replace every 10 years

Circuit use: - 400hp replace every 5yrs

Circuit use: - 400-600hp replace every 3yrs

Circuit use: - 600+hp replace annually

Since my car is a "weekend car" with the occational track/motokhana use, the smaller balancer will suit my purpose.

The way i look at it: These have to be better than the std balancer, so no need to worry about "cutting it fine" :)

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