Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey u goin guys planning on takin my skyline back 2 calder this fridai nite went last time with 3"inch turbo back and front mount air filter ( no heat shield or cold air induction) and a boost controller not EBC ran a 14.3 at 100.2 MPH now i dont know if thats shit or decent or wat for a r33 series 2 was hittin around 9-10psi , now ive got a greddy profec B spec II in and a full 90mm cold air innduction ran should i b looking for better times? if so roughly wat with decent take off and gear changes

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/183800-14-mile-return/
Share on other sites

what was your 60' time?

aroun 2.0 is good, 2.2 is average and can be improved upon.

without sounding slack, 14.3 is not a good time.

9-10 psi in a stock ECU'd r33 means it would be running pretty rich and on the edge of misfiring and carrying on.

cheapest way to get better times (apart from practice) is a tune with an SAFC to fix the air:fuel mixtures.

obviously some street legal drag radials.

then practice away.

maybe list any other mods.

what:

wheels and tyres and what size are they

what tyre pressure?

clutch

do you know what power it is making?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/183800-14-mile-return/#findComment-3328903
Share on other sites

Hmm thinkn runnin back 2 standard boost on the nite , dunn have a clue power havnt had it tuned or dyno'd standard 16"inch wheels and standard clutch...like it hits around 7 then the boost slowly creeps up 2 around 9 on higher revs

2.303 60"

tyre pressure was around 28 psi for the nite from memory

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/183800-14-mile-return/#findComment-3328912
Share on other sites

Hey u goin guys planning on takin my skyline back 2 calder this fridai nite went last time with 3"inch turbo back and front mount air filter ( no heat shield or cold air induction) and a boost controller not EBC ran a 14.3 at 100.2 MPH now i dont know if thats shit or decent or wat for a r33 series 2 was hittin around 9-10psi , now ive got a greddy profec B spec II in and a full 90mm cold air innduction ran should i b looking for better times? if so roughly wat with decent take off and gear changes

just to give you a rough idea, my younger bro has a r33 gts-t series 1.5, stock turbo and engine, stock ecu (no SAFC), boost at 12psi, full exhaust, FMIC and a pod, pulled a 13.3 with a 2.0 60 foot time.

You should easily crack a high 13 with you mods if you launch it right and drive it hard.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/183800-14-mile-return/#findComment-3329349
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I refreshed the OEM injectors with the kit and connected it up. It now ideals okay even with the IACV removed. Driving still has the same cutoff issue like the 550cc injectors so the issue is somewhere else. I bought FPG's Fuel Pump Hanger. I will be installing it next, but it is not as straightforward as I thought it was with my limited wiring knowledge and no instruction on the specific model I purchased (FPG-089). I also got the incorrect billet clamp as I could not find info on the OEM sizing.
    • Stop looking at the garage floor, and turn the radio up a bit louder if there's any strange noises...
    • No. Turbo shuffle and surge/flutter are not the same thing. Specifically, on a GTR, turbo shuffle has a definite meaning. On a GTR, the twin turbos are assumed to be the same thing and to operate the same way, exactly. In reality, they do not. Their exhaust sides are fed and exhaust a little differently, to each other. Their inlet sides are fed and exhausted a little differently, to each other. Consequently, when they are "working" they are often at slightly different points on the compressor map compared to each other. What this means, particularly when coming on boost, is that one of them will spool up and start producing extra flow compared to the other, which will put back pressure on that other compressor, which will push the operating point on that other compressor up (vertically). This will generally result in it bumping up against the surge line on the map, but even if it doesn't, it upsets the compressor and you get this surging shuffle back and forth between them That is "turbo shuffle" on a GTR. It is related to other flutter effects heard on other turbo systems, but it is a particular feature of the somewhat crappy outlet piping arrangement on RB26s. There are plenty of mods that have been attempted with varying levels of success. People have ground out and/or welded more material into the twin turbo pipe to try to prevent it. Extending the divider inside it works, removing material doesn't. There are aftermarket replacement twin turbo pipes available, and these exist pretty mush purely because of this shuffle problem.
    • You can temporarily* use lock collars to keep it in place until you can do the bushes, back the nuts off, slide them in, snug back up. *temporarily is often for ever
    • Thanks for the quick reply. To be clear, when you say turbo shuffle do you mean turbo flutter "stustustu" or referring to something else? I had thought they were the same thing. When I wrote the post my intention was to say it wasn't a flutter/compression surge sound. My understanding was that a flutter sound would be occurring when throttle is released, whereas I can keep the throttle in the same position for this noise
×
×
  • Create New...