Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys. I've got an S14 for sale which is hot pink. Before you pull out the "omgwtfhotpink?" posts, I purchased this car for use as a track car, so the colour would have been changed anyway. I bought it with intentions to strip it and then rebuild it from the ground up (welded in cage etc) but the car is much too complete to do that to, and I'd rather have the cash atm than start working on a car.

A little info about the car:

  • The whole car has been stripped and then painted hot pink, so the entire chassis is the same colour.
  • The paint looks red in the dark, but in sunlight looks like a purpley pink... very heavy pearl.
  • The removable panels on the car are all factory maroon (ie: boot, bonnet, doors, front bumper, rear bumper, wing).
  • Car has an SR20DET, and an auto gearbox. Healthy engine and transmission.
  • Starts and runs on the first go every time, idles normally, and has been recently serviced with fresh oil, filters etc.
  • There is a slight wheel bearing noise from the front driver side, which requires the hub to be replaced. I can organise this to be done prior to delivery of the car for an additional cost of $150.
  • I believe the car was bought from auction by the previous owner as a financial writeoff. He then sold it to me after completing the repairs necessary.
  • Car is not currently registered.
  • Car has REVS history and will need to have a VIV inspection prior to registration.

I'll post up some pics tomorrow as I don't have any pics of it atm, and its a little dirty so I'll take some pics after I've washed it.

Asking $6000 for it ono. As it starts and runs can be transported interstate cheaply... however this will be at your cost. Free delivery if you're in the Melbourne metro area.

I will be ebaying it shortly, so get in before it goes for auction.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/183833-hot-pink-s14-200sx/
Share on other sites

Had a couple of pics on my phone from a few days ago. I still haven't had a chance to wash it or make it look nice :) But it should give you an idea of what the car looks like as far as colour scheme goes. The entire chassis (engine bay and all) is that pink colour the rear quarter is in.

cool car! just wondering is it road worthy? sorry for asking these kinda questions but i'm kinda lost here..thanks!

It has a couple of items that may need to be fixed for roadworthy, the ones off the top of my head that I can think of are the windscreen wipers needing to be fixed (they're there, they just don't work... I'm guessing the wiring's not hooked up properly) and the wheel bearing noise needs to be fixed (on S14's this means the whole hub needs to be replaced, I can have it done for an extra $150).

Keep in mind this car has REVS history and will need a VIV prior to registration. I've never gone through this before, so I can't tell you how hard or easy it is, but I'm told the inspection is very detailed.

Basically I cbf doin any work on this car, so I'm selling it as is. I'm selling it as a running track car with complete interior etc, whether you choose to get it registered or strip it and use it as a track car, I leave it up to you. My mate just sold his S1 S14 for 15,000 (mind you it wasn't hot pink and it was manual)... but I'm sure for the $9000 you save you can repaint the car and convert it to manual :thumbsup:

If I don't get $6000 for it, then I'll just strip it and make it a track car, as this was my original intention when I got it.

  • 10 months later...

hmm well never bothered to sell the car, so it sat in my garage all these days... now I need the space... so here's more detailed pics.

IMG_0075.jpg

IMG_0076.jpg

IMG_0077.jpg

IMG_0078.jpg

IMG_0079.jpg

IMG_0080.jpg

IMG_0081.jpg

IMG_0082.jpg

IMG_0083.jpg

IMG_0084.jpg

IMG_0085.jpg

Still asking the same price, $6000.

For track use only or for parts. Car starts and runs fine, can be shipped interstate at your cost. If you want to try and put it back on the road, I'll leave that up to you, I'll hand over any receipts I have for it and the rest is up to you.

All pics posted are available in 8MPX resolution. Post in this thread (DO NOT PM, I get about 30 PM's a day and don't get around to them for ages) which pic you want a higher res version of.

  • 11 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
    • The video for the servicing and fuel filter change can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44 One of the main jobs I wanted to do before the car officially went on the road, was to remove the awful looking blue silicone hoses. There's nothing wrong with having coloured silicone hoses, but I realise as I'm getting older I prefer monotone engine bays with a splash of colour on the engine cover(s). I cover this in a lot more detail in the Youtube video, so unfortunately there's limited photos of the process. The intercooler, upper radiator, boost vacuum and upper breather hoses were all changed to black silicone with mikalor clamps. The only blue left is a blanking cap at the back of the inlet manifold and the GReddy pulleys (which will be replaced for stock when the cambelt gets replaced) While the intercooler pipes were off I gave them a quick clean/polish too A before photo I do have a replacement air filter on its way. Fuse box covers were painted blue, they're now satin black Another job on the list while the bumper was off, is to add some mesh https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54737966256_99b28bfa30_c.jpg[/img] I was hoping to use some thin wire to secure it, but it seems I've misplaced it and the wire I had was too thick to twist easily. I ended up using cable ties for the time being https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54737131882_c2b7989dcc_c.jpg[/img] Was pleasant to see this https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54737131627_8b2aab13b3_c.jpg[/img] The last thing to do was to fix the front grill and re-mesh that to match but I ran out of time The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R4FsF6tgizE&t=23s
×
×
  • Create New...