Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 187
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Just got back from the workshop. Trouble looming. Council tied up his afyternoon sprouting by laws and regs re noise (I told yall it was farkin loud)

just about done all the low and midrange tuning, I have never seen anybody so meticulous. Hes dropping the car off shortly, then It goes back monday when the animal will be unleashed. Very sedate 300rwhp at 8lb atm. Found an extra 50 hp just playing with the inlet cam. The idle sounds off the planet. Mick asked me if i wanted it smoother as he would alter thye cams to suit, i told him if he touched it i would kill him, twice, it sounds farkin haaaaaawwwwwwt!!!!

For those wondering why this is taking as long as it is its really simple. When i questioned the magic man re the time frame he told me straight up. If you want a tune like 90% of tunes going around atm then fine, I'll do it and you can have the car in a couple of hours. But what you will get for your money is a large hp number and a car rich as all shit to keep it safe, If you want the tune to unlock the potential of the build then Farkorf and let me tune it in my own way and my own time....I farked orf. :)

I understand the time required for a decent tune, but wow. Is Mick working on your car in between other jobs or just taking a farking long time on yours alone. I'd be scared to see your bill for the tune....you'd want some serious power/response!

the thing now pulls harder with the current 300hp than it did with the previous 340hp on the run in tune. and oh my son of rajab, that camy lumpy idle is just sooooooo porn :ninja:

I understand the time required for a decent tune, but wow. Is Mick working on your car in between other jobs or just taking a farking long time on yours alone. I'd be scared to see your bill for the tune....you'd want some serious power/response!

rofl, I'm with you Matt. If he was seriously spending all that time on mine alone i would want a veyron at the end of it.

Due to illness and some other issues he has only spent 3/4 hours on mine. Patience grasshopper, it will be worth the wait.

man i am so unlucky i was at ipswitch like 1 -2 hrs ago...and i missed yah...bugger.

sounds like it is going to haul arse on 1 bar...cant wait to see it on 1.5 bar.....mmmmmm..

noel's busy as a mofo so i'll update you guys

it aint making anymore power than 440bhp, dont matter what boost, 18psi, or even 23psi. we think the cats collapsed.

also its now not holding boost, it's spiking. but i believe thats because the exhaust gases rnt escaping quick enough (collapsed cat) and the gases are backing up against the wastegate, forcing it closed and then increasing the boost.

he's also had to change fuel rail (got my tomei rail on there now) because the injectors werent sealing to the rail and had to change boost controller (now running blitz spec s) as it wouldnt allow any adjustment over the 9psi wastegate spring

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Price seems pretty good to me. Also seems a hell of a lot cheaper then buying another vehicle that only ever gets used for towing.  I'm a long way from you mate, I'm a couple of hours out of Brizzy. 
    • New [400]Z, they're available in manual and you don't have to worry about parts scarcity. 
    • Just planning to have the wiring neat and hide as much as possible.
    • The sodium acetate, mixed with citric acid, doesn't actually buffer each other. Interestingly though, if you used Sodium Acetate, and acetic acid, THAT becomes a buffer solution. Additionally, a weak acid that can attack a metal, is still a weak acid that can attack a metal. If you don't neutralise it, and wash it off, it's going to be able to keep attacking. It works the same way when battery acid dries, get that stuff somewhere, and then it gets wet, and off it goes again breaking things down. There's a reason why people prefer a weak acid, and it's because they want TIME to be able to be on their side. IE, DIY guys are happy to leave some mild steel in vinegar for 24 hours to get mill scale off. However, if you want to do it chemically in industry, you grab the muriatic acid. If you want to do it quicker at home, go for the acetic acid if you don't want muriatic around. At the end of the day, look at the above thumbnail, as it proves what I said in the earlier post, you can clean that fuel tank up all you want with the solution, but the rust that has now been removed was once the metal of the fuel tank. So how thin in spots is your fuel tank getting? If the magazine on the left, is the actual same magazine as on the right, you'll notice it even introduces more holes... Well, rust removal in general actually does that. The fuel tank isn't very thick. So, I'll state again, look to replace the tank, replace the fuel hanger, and pump, work out how the rust and shit is making it past the fuel filter, and getting into the injectors. That is the real problem. If the fuel filter were doing its job, the injectors wouldn't be blocked.
    • Despite having minimal clothing because of the hot weather right now, I did have rubber gloves and safety glasses on just in-case for most of the time. Yes, I was scrubbing with my gloves on before, but brushing with a brush removes the remaining rust. To neutralize, I was thinking distilled water and baking soda, or do you think that would be overkill?
×
×
  • Create New...