Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey

My car is pretty stock, came from Japan about 4 weeks ago.

Only engine modifications it has is a back exhaust and pod filter.

Basically there is no rev limiter? I have rev'd it to 8,000rpm on occasions and backed off as it didn't stop at a limiter?

Red line starts at 7,500 if I am not wrong, and it should be limited at 7,800 if I am not mistaken?

I have spoken to a few other RB20 owners and they have also had the same issue. I guess the question I am asking is, did R32 RB20DET come out with a rev limiter?

I haven't checked the ECU yet, but I doubt it would have been altered as the car is very stock.. But what would I be looking for that would show the rev limiter has been removed?

Any input would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance,

Abu

Edited by abu
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/184518-rb20det-rev-limiter/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 60
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

my mates rb20 revs past 8000 rpm too! he is scared to over rev it! he thinks there was no limiter so 8200 sounds possible

Yeah its very weird!

I usually rev my cars hard, but I actually really like this R32 and I'm looking after it haha

I don't want to be reving it past past recommended redline!

Has anyone experienced or seen a RB20 with a rev limiter, on standard ECU?

Edited by abu

It may be "apparently" higher because the spring on the tacho needle is getting a bit "soft", and letting the needle spin further than it should.

I've noticed the tacho readout on my Wolf handset is less than the tacho in the instrument cluster.

yep mine was 8,200 standard auto ecu

bashed it every monday night for 3 months making 230rwkw

no probs

pretty sure its still going now

8,200 far out. I would never rev it that hard.. well..

It struggles to rev kinda past 5,500 - 6,000 rpm due to being on standard turbo, stock intcooler and only having a cat back exhaust.

Once I get the turbo back exhaust on, cooler and bigger turbo on, with the WOLF tuned then I will rev it to that ;)

It may be "apparently" higher because the spring on the tacho needle is getting a bit "soft", and letting the needle spin further than it should.

I've noticed the tacho readout on my Wolf handset is less than the tacho in the instrument cluster.

Oh thats interesting..

No idea man, wont be able to check that until I get my WOLF in and tuned I guess, or I guess until it gets onto a dyno.

Edited by abu

7,800 is the factory,

mine had an auto box now a manual box, hasnt ever changed....i have it chiped and its still the same only the speed limited was put a fair bit higher.

it shouldnt have a problem reving that high even on stock turbo....just that you wont get stuff all power up there, so its kinda pointless to rev it that high. if you have an aftermarket turbo then go for it.

I can confirm this also.

the standard tacho is inaccurate. there is indeed a 7500 rpm limit with a hard cut at 7800. the tacho is almost 10% out. so 7500 + 10% = 8250 ;)

Is that right. Whats the reason for it being out, like where they released out from factory?

I haven't managed to actually hit limiter, even in the wet when having a bit of fun, but I tend to be cautious about how high its reving.

7,800 is the factory,

mine had an auto box now a manual box, hasnt ever changed....i have it chiped and its still the same only the speed limited was put a fair bit higher.

it shouldnt have a problem reving that high even on stock turbo....just that you wont get stuff all power up there, so its kinda pointless to rev it that high. if you have an aftermarket turbo then go for it.

Ohh ok thanks man.

Yeah no point reving it that hard unless you get power that high, which you wont on standard turbo. I don't tend to rev it past 6,500rpm as it is now as it beings to struggle.

But once I get it tuned with the WOLF I will get the limiter set to about 7,800 rpm.

With my standard ecu, mine hits the limite at 8300 but my RSM says 7600ish at the time dont hold it long enough to write it down ;)

8,300 rpm damn, thats high. Weird how they are out so much hey?

LOL @ dont hold it long enough to write it down.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
    • I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
×
×
  • Create New...