Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

I have just bought my first R33. Yesturday the rubber pipe broke off from the boost controll and my boost was hiting (whats looks to be) 5 on the in dash display. before i this happened the boost was only getting up too 1-2 on the display. What is the standard boost the car should run. I have also been told not to boost the stock turbos as the fins with break. :P..

The car has a boost controller but its turned all the way down.

How much would a after market turbo cost?

Thanks for the help,

Kyle

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/184718-r33-boost-stock/
Share on other sites

Hey buddy

Stock boost is about 7psi.

Have a read through the forced induction section of the forum, you will find heaps more info there :P

You can boost the stock turbos up to no more than 14psi which is what is recommended, but thats with supporting modifications such as FMIC and turbo back exhaust.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/184718-r33-boost-stock/#findComment-3343419
Share on other sites

It should run on or around that line between 0-7, and a turbo upgrade can cost from 1-5k for something good!

I think high flow'd turbo's are around $1700 all up, but there not gonna do you any good with the stock ecu.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/184718-r33-boost-stock/#findComment-3343427
Share on other sites

Thanks guys, its a good place to start. how much would a good turn cost, I was speaking to a guy on the Gold Coast and he said he spent arund $700 for a dyno turn,

What does FMIC stand for, Sorry for the stupid questions but im new and its the best way to learn. lol

Where could i find instruction on how to hock up a boost gague.

Thanks in advance.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/184718-r33-boost-stock/#findComment-3343477
Share on other sites

Thanks guys, its a good place to start. how much would a good turn cost, I was speaking to a guy on the Gold Coast and he said he spent arund $700 for a dyno turn,

What does FMIC stand for, Sorry for the stupid questions but im new and its the best way to learn. lol

Where could i find instruction on how to hock up a boost gague.

Thanks in advance.

You'll need either a piggyback ecu or replacement ecu to be able to "tune" anything at all. Otherwise the most you'll be able to do is adjust ignition timing which is hardly worth paying that much money for.

A good dyno tune will normally cost around a minimum of $150 just for the tune. The $700 you mentioned would have included extra stuff, and maybe tuning more than one thing. I've only had a Apexi SAFC piggyback tuned which isn't that hard so cant give you a good estimate for say a full replacement ecu sorry.

FMIC is Front Mount InterCooler. You should be able to find some good info on these forums by using the search button... :P

there is a small nozzle on the back right hand side of the engine (if you're facing forwards, or left if you're at the front of the car looking in the engine bay) - it has a small rubber thing on it to block it off - you just remove the rubber stop and connect your boost guage hose to that nozzle. as for mounting it etc. well thats a bit more difficult and entirely up to you...

generally, if you're not sure, get a friend or workshop to do it...I'm kinda in the same boat as far as my technical ability. I know how to do fairly simple stuff but I'm no mechanic. :(

Oh, and stock boost is 5psi up to 4500rpm where it increases to ~7 psi. But if you've replaced the stock boost solenoid with a boost controller you'll probably want to set it anywhere between 7 and 10psi but no higher than 10 to protect the stock turbo. If the turbo shatters (which it will at anything around 14psi) it'll cost more than just a replacement turbo...

Like others have said, to make an aftermarket turbo worthwhile, you'll need to spend around $5K including the turbo itself...and maybe more to get the best from it...

Edited by pixel8r
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/184718-r33-boost-stock/#findComment-3343573
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Working through possible solutions of converting my mechanical speedo.    Anyone know what type of speedo sensor the factory r34 gtr getrag has ? what the output is ? I assume its not a VSS and more a voltage like earlier speedo sensors ? Can an ECU read it ?  
    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
×
×
  • Create New...