Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

was sitting stationary this morning and saw steam come out bonnet, i look down at temp gauge to see it almost in the HOT area... so i like mounted the kerb got out and poped the bonnet.

it spat out the coolant out the overflow, the overflow was empty but not sure about the radiator level.

let it cool down for 5 minutes, started it back up and drove it down road to automasters, they are guna look at it on friday.

does this sounds like a thermostat issue? this is the first problem iv had with the car and its so sudden.

are the rb20 heads strong, surely those few seconds was not enough to warp the head. it started and idled fine afterwards and it didnt shoot straight up to the heat either, even after 3-4min of running.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/184728-rb20-overheated/
Share on other sites

when it cooled down did the radiator have coolant in it? what kind of fan set up do you have? if clutch fan, make sure its not seized, if thermo, make sure they are doing there job well by putting your hand in front of radiator to feel air being pulled through the core at a decent rate rather than a slight breeze. Wouldn't hurt to flush the system and put fresh coolant in as well.

you may have a leak if the overflow was empty and was previously full, unsure whether it may or may not be thermostat. I would check these things first.

Edited by gibbau
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/184728-rb20-overheated/#findComment-3346219
Share on other sites

i got a call to be told the water pump is leaking, i contacted the old owner and he asured me it was replaced 15 thousand kms ago...

im going to get them to do a oxygen test on teh coolant to see if its worth replacing or chuck the motor away.

strange.. i couldnt see it, spose that wat sucks about it behind behind covers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/184728-rb20-overheated/#findComment-3346370
Share on other sites

The rb20 heads are tough as.. :blink:

When I first bought my car years ago I unknowingly (due to a faulty temp sensor) had it running upwards of 120degree's for a whole summer. The temp gauge when the sender was fixed would sit on the H rock solid. And I wondered why it would spit water out in traffic lol.

How the car was fine I still have no idea; it went on to run another 100,000km's before I pulled the motor out; still making great power, excellent compression etc.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/184728-rb20-overheated/#findComment-3346395
Share on other sites

timing belt was done about 15 thousand ago, has a stamp on there saying so anyway. looks to correct by the condition of the belt

by the time i get a tow truck which will be 130 bucks

go to my other house to collect the tools i need to do the job with fuel + the cost of a pump and coolant

may as well get them to do it :P

i was just trying to justify spendn that amount LOL so maybe if someone can tell me its a shit job and it takes days il feel better :unsure:

Edited by BANGN
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/184728-rb20-overheated/#findComment-3346952
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...