Jump to content
SAU Community

Need Serious Advice


nikr33turb
 Share

Recommended Posts

Alright so atm i have a r33 gts-25t with upgraded exhaust, air intake (pod and cold air box), manual boost controller set to 10psi....I am gettin a tax refund of basically 3000 and want to spend it on the car. I know i want a fmic but after that im a little lots. Cant decide between new ecu (and what type),fuel system, ignition system, suspension, clutch etc etc.....Where would be a good place to start with this kind of money????

Any advice would be gr8ly apprechiated : )

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Alright so atm i have a r33 gts-25t with upgraded exhaust, air intake (pod and cold air box), manual boost controller set to 10psi....I am gettin a tax refund of basically 3000 and want to spend it on the car. I know i want a fmic but after that im a little lots. Cant decide between new ecu (and what type),fuel system, ignition system, suspension, clutch etc etc.....Where would be a good place to start with this kind of money????

Any advice would be gr8ly apprechiated : )

i think FMIC, ecu and fuel pump maybe the way to go - but im a n00b myself

OR

u can invest the 3k and grow it into 10k and then spend on the car - but not as much fun :unsure:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'd go with a FMIC kit, along with a bigger fuel pump. (WALBRO - $160 delivered, or BOSCH 040 - $180odd).

Then I'd upgrade turbo, something like a HKSGTRS, or HKS2535.

After that an after market ECU (WOLF3d, MICROTECH, PFC).

That should get you about 240rwkw if not more, after the ECU is installed and tuned.

After that uprade the injectors if you want to go sort of over 250rwkw.

If your going to get it into the 200rwkw power bracket, I would also upgrade to an after market clutch. (EXEDY 5 PUK BRASS BUTTON) personal choice again.. Can take up to 300rwkw.

Then you can go a head and choose some coilovers/suspension, plenty in the for sale section.

2 way LSD if you want, depending what your doing with the car.

Edited by abu
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sorry forgot one thing also.

If you go with a bigger turbo and PFC, you will need to get a bigger AFM. A Z32 AFM (air flow meter) will be sufficient.

If your going to a WOLF3d or a MICROTECH ECU, they use an inbuilt MAP sensor, which means you can take the AFM out all together.

Thanks,

Abu

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It depends how much power your really after.... With $3000 you could buy alot of mods!! lol,

I would recommend:

FMIC

GTR Fuel Pump or Borch/Walbro

GTR Injectors

Splitfire Coilpacks

R34 Hi Flow Turbo or something within your range

Extreme/Heavy Duty Clutch

Coilovers

Aftermarket ECU (WOLF3D)

After getting all that, get your car tuned and it will have alot more power!! :D

Edited by r32matt
Link to comment
Share on other sites

get every thing else first before the turbo. eg injectors, FMIC, ECU, fuel pump, etc. there would be nothing worse than getting a turbo and ecu and paying to get it tuned to find out that it cant be tunned to full potential because of say, injectors maxing out.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

How much would i be looking at for one of those two turbos?

GTRS is about $1300 new from forum traders.

HKS2535 I seen pop up on the forums for about $1,100 odd 2nd hand.

I think there is a GTRS for sale for about $1,200 in the for sale section?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I noticed most of u guys are putting ecu right down low on the list....Are they not needed until most mods are carried out?

no, without the upgraded ecu how are you going to control those bigger injectors, and the increased flow and pressure from a bigger turbo.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Alrighht well for now the shopping list looks like this...

Power fc.

fmic.

fuel pump

Spark plugs

gtr injectors

Is this a good combo? am i missing anything vital? and what sort of power should i expect.....

the cars mods would list the above plus turbo back exhaust, filter +cold air box and boost set to 10psi.....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I noticed most of u guys are putting ecu right down low on the list....Are they not needed until most mods are carried out?

ECU isn't really required till you upgrade turbo.

I say this because stock turbo can't really go over 13psi, so your safe to run about 12 - 13psi which is find on stadnard ECU with support mods (FMIC, pump, etc)

Once you go bigger turbo, basically it can obviously take more then 13psi, and you will want to run more.

Increase flow will make more power on lower boost compared to your stock turbo.

Once you get to this point the best thing to do is get the car tuned. A tune will show best results/gains in performance and is also the safest thing for the engine.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

hi nikr33turb. i have gone down this road before, and can offer some advice.

atm i have a turbo, injectors, and ignition system just sitting in my garage.

but have found that i need to upgrade my ecu to run them.

from my research the power fc seems to be the best and cheapest ecu.

definitley get the ecu first, it is the base of your upgrades

Link to comment
Share on other sites

a little over 200rwkw. upgrade the turbo as well and 250rwkw or more.

i wouldn't go gtr injectors though. i though r33 had 370cc standard. gtrs are only 440cc, thats not much of an increase. power fc would be able to handle bigger injectors and tune them down plus when you do more upgrades in the future you would already have the injectors to handle it. 550cc, 700cc even.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Alrighht well for now the shopping list looks like this...

Power fc.

fmic.

fuel pump

Spark plugs

gtr injectors

Is this a good combo? am i missing anything vital? and what sort of power should i expect.....

the cars mods would list the above plus turbo back exhaust, filter +cold air box and boost set to 10psi.....

APEXi Power FC

Injectors

Turbo (HKS XXXX)

Fuel pump (fuel pump)

FMIC kit

Clutch kit (EXEDY)

240rwkw - 260rwkw for a safe tune depending on turbo.

Edited by abu
Link to comment
Share on other sites

You will need to buy some Spiltfire Coilpacks. After turning the boost up your coilpacks wont last for long. The standard coilpacks wont be able to handle the spark, a set of Splitfires are $550 from SAU :D

Your Shopping list looks great so far!

Power fc.

fmic.

fuel pump

Spark plugs

gtr injectors

Splitfire Coilpacks* :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You will need to buy some Spiltfire Coilpacks. After turning the boost up your coilpacks wont last for long. The standard coilpacks wont be able to handle the spark, a set of Splitfires are $550 from SAU :D

Your Shopping list looks great so far!

Power fc.

fmic.

fuel pump

Spark plugs

gtr injectors

Splitfire Coilpacks* :D

Na man, after market coil packs wont be needed till they give in.

If it runs fine on standard coilpacks just leave them.

Plenty of people running that sort of power on standard coil packs.

Edited by abu
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi mate, I have never had an issue with the odometer in mine (450,000+ klm now) and can't remember another post about it. Still, your description of the likely cause sounds spot on, so an electrics repair is probably the next stop.
    • Cheers. I more want it quieter with the varex open. I only have the varex closed when i start up and roll out the driveway to keep everyone happy on days i take the car to work at 5 AM or come home late. So just a mod muffler will do tge trick? Something like that would require a retune hey?
    • I was going to say generally speaking if it's like 80k+ miles since the valve cover has been replaced you don't even attempt to just replace the gasket. The valve cover itself will likely be warped and it will continue to leak after replacement, just not as severely. The valve cover PCV diaphragm can also tear and create a major vacuum leak. Welcome to BMW life. My friend's 2006 330i was t-boned and totaled out so he also just got a 335i so I can add to this thread now.
    • Hi all, For my '98 260rs... The odometer LCD occasionally turns blank or gives me only the bottom half or top half of the numbers. It's intermittent, which leaves me to believe it's a dead solder or loose wire somewhere. The odometer itself works. When the screen comes back, kms have been added to the trip and overall meters. A couple questions: Is this a known issue with the Stagea? I didn't see it pop up in my quick search, but that could be my searching skills. How accessible is the LCD screen in the cluster? I'm hoping it's a remove and replace type situation versus cracking open the whole housing. I'm hoping you all can narrow some of my initial troubleshooting. Any experience or opinions would be helpful.  
    • Yeah. Seeing the finish line must be quite the motivation. Good on you for sticking with it. Understood about the model choice. Also, totally get the challenge with sourcing parts. Based on your handle, I'm just a few hours south of you. All the little things I've bought so far come with $30 shipping, even if it's just stickers for the boot!
×
×
  • Create New...