Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

You can use the RB25 (or maybe it was RB30) sump

User: Fatz did it a couple years back, maybe dropping him a PM?

However if you can use the 26 one, do so.

Stock/diff removed sump is by far the best way to go about it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/185613-rb-26-rwd/#findComment-3358565
Share on other sites

  • 11 months later...

I know it's been quite a while since this thread was active. I did a search under drivetrain for anything RB26 related to find out what is out there for the sump issue when making it into a RWD setup.

So far this is the closest thread. I've seen some pictures of a modified 26 sump that was made in Aus. for a RWD application. I was wondering if there were any dimensions or specifics that could be passed on. Or someone or a company out there that makes them. I really dont want to do a RB25 sump and modify that one personally.

Thanks in advance.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/185613-rb-26-rwd/#findComment-4122994
Share on other sites

rb 25 and 30 sump needs work for them to fit baffles and pannel beating for oil pickup pipe..

rb26 is much stonger but needs cutting and welding I used the 26 on my conversion..

If you supply the 26 sump I can get it modded and welded for $300

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/185613-rb-26-rwd/#findComment-4123279
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...