Jump to content
SAU Community

2.5 Or 3" Thats The Question...


Recommended Posts

hi everyone i was just at an exhaust place getting my muffler welded up (cracked) for a roadworthy when the guy at the shop starts telling me that my 3" system is causing me to lose power?? then he goes on to say that for street driving i will get noticeble gains from going to a 2.5" catback system ( with 3" dump,frontpipe and cat) and will get a mountain of touqe and mid range power from this 2.5" system that he will make up for me, he also added that mandrel bent exhausts had no gains over just bending normally. so now i am thinking :thumbsup: is there any sence to this madness or is this guy just trying to get me to go and buy an exhaust of him??

any feed back welcome

cheers dean

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/185819-25-or-3-thats-the-question/
Share on other sites

2.5" is probably better suite to an NA car.

Most of the turbo guys, if not all, includng my self run a 3" turbo back.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...php?showforum=8

Have a read through the link above. It's the "forced induction" section and has a lot of info in regards to after market performance mods.

You can buy off the shelf 3" exhaust system for your R33, which would be cheaper than getting a custom one made up, also less stuffing around.

Have a look in the for sale section, under traders, there is a lot of well priced systems available.

Good luck.

Abu

Edited by abu

Yep, so go 3", no point going to a 2.5".

Click My Controls at the top of the page, then edit profile information on the left. Then where it says Custom member title, change the writing in that field.

Hope that helps.

Abu

Sounds like one big load of BS to me, yes a tuned exhaust on an NA is good but on a turbo setup get the exhaust out as quickly with as the least amount of turbulence possible, less resistance = easy spool up :D

I don't think he knew what he was talking about, that or he couldn't do it and wanted to sell you a POS setup :thumbsup:

he also added that mandrel bent exhausts had no gains over just bending normally.

A mandrel bend means the inside diameter (ID) maintains a consistent size reducing turbulence and maintaining velocity.

Whilst i do agree that 3inch on an N/A 2.5litre may be a little big, the exhaust dude sounds like a tool that just want ur money.

EDIT: LoL, i just read the post properly...i dunno where i got the idea ur car was N/A :thumbsup: ....go the 3inch dude.

yeah dude i work for an exhaust company, which designs exhaust system for earth moving equipment. But the same principals apply, if he reacons there is no difference between mandrel and pipe bends he deserves a swift fly kick to the head. As previously stated mandrel keeps constant ID were as if you pipe bend 2.5" tube you could be reducing it down to 2" or less.. And how he justify's a three inch dump and then 2.5" system is stupid... Turbo's don't like back pressure so 3" is ideal

Subject has just been done on wrx.com.au as well http://www.wrx.com.au/forum/viewtopic.php?t=44145

This website also has some discussion (admittedly about Rexes, but the general principle would be applicable to all turbos) http://www.msengineering.com.au/exhaustsystems.html

non turbo guys get 2.25" or 2.5" i myself got 2.25" as more people seemed to recommend that, from my understanding the smaller exhaust is better for lower revs and the slightly larger would benefit when high revving?

duno about turbos tho, everyone ive seen has 3" :(

Edited by leighzor

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Possibly avoid using a Cometic one unless the deck/head surface are perfectly flat. I did have a look just then and forgiving gaskets such as Tomei or Nitto don't exist for the FJ20, however the Bar-Tek or Kameari ones look good and might do the trick.
    • Because pipe threads for pipe things. M threads for bolt things. Throw some teflon sealant onto it and dust your hands off knowing you did the right thing, instead of going twice around the block to achieve a result using the wrong things. Of course, all of these solutions are ignoring the fact that the minimum thread pitch we're talking about here is 1.25mm, with the 1/4" in NPT or BPS being out around 1.4mm. You will need to know that the boss you're tapping has enough thickness for at least a few threads. That's one of the reasons that 1/8" is commonly used - because the pitch is <1mm. And why would you look to use 1/4" NPT in a BSP country anyway? Ugh.
    • Just throwing around ideas, does it need to be in the compressor cover? Why not the hot side piping?
    • 1/8NPT drill size = 8.7mm. Since the hole got messed up by me, it’s probably around 9mm.    So 1/4” NPT would be next step. A drill size of around 11mm would be preferred there which is not way of my M12 (drill 10.5mm and tap M12 threads) 
    • 3 Kids are starting to hit that ages. I wanted to get them something special to learn on, put down the screens and have some fun. 4Door 2001 R34DE Black Pearl GV1 Jap Import, AU 2nd owner. Pre Work done. Suspension - Wheels Pedders SportsRyder Coilovers   Wheels TSG Spokey Boi 18'x9.5"+15 Body JASI Aero 4 door Type R Full Kit LED Conversion - Parker, Blinkers, & Reverse Exhaust Hurricane Headers 100 CPI high flow cat 2.5" Piping Cannon muffler Internal Bride low max stradia ii - front seats  Bride RO seat base and Rails (R/H) Cube short shifter LED Conversion - Interior   
×
×
  • Create New...