Jump to content
SAU Community

2.5 Or 3" Thats The Question...


Recommended Posts

hi everyone i was just at an exhaust place getting my muffler welded up (cracked) for a roadworthy when the guy at the shop starts telling me that my 3" system is causing me to lose power?? then he goes on to say that for street driving i will get noticeble gains from going to a 2.5" catback system ( with 3" dump,frontpipe and cat) and will get a mountain of touqe and mid range power from this 2.5" system that he will make up for me, he also added that mandrel bent exhausts had no gains over just bending normally. so now i am thinking :thumbsup: is there any sence to this madness or is this guy just trying to get me to go and buy an exhaust of him??

any feed back welcome

cheers dean

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/185819-25-or-3-thats-the-question/
Share on other sites

2.5" is probably better suite to an NA car.

Most of the turbo guys, if not all, includng my self run a 3" turbo back.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...php?showforum=8

Have a read through the link above. It's the "forced induction" section and has a lot of info in regards to after market performance mods.

You can buy off the shelf 3" exhaust system for your R33, which would be cheaper than getting a custom one made up, also less stuffing around.

Have a look in the for sale section, under traders, there is a lot of well priced systems available.

Good luck.

Abu

Edited by abu

Yep, so go 3", no point going to a 2.5".

Click My Controls at the top of the page, then edit profile information on the left. Then where it says Custom member title, change the writing in that field.

Hope that helps.

Abu

Sounds like one big load of BS to me, yes a tuned exhaust on an NA is good but on a turbo setup get the exhaust out as quickly with as the least amount of turbulence possible, less resistance = easy spool up :D

I don't think he knew what he was talking about, that or he couldn't do it and wanted to sell you a POS setup :thumbsup:

he also added that mandrel bent exhausts had no gains over just bending normally.

A mandrel bend means the inside diameter (ID) maintains a consistent size reducing turbulence and maintaining velocity.

Whilst i do agree that 3inch on an N/A 2.5litre may be a little big, the exhaust dude sounds like a tool that just want ur money.

EDIT: LoL, i just read the post properly...i dunno where i got the idea ur car was N/A :thumbsup: ....go the 3inch dude.

yeah dude i work for an exhaust company, which designs exhaust system for earth moving equipment. But the same principals apply, if he reacons there is no difference between mandrel and pipe bends he deserves a swift fly kick to the head. As previously stated mandrel keeps constant ID were as if you pipe bend 2.5" tube you could be reducing it down to 2" or less.. And how he justify's a three inch dump and then 2.5" system is stupid... Turbo's don't like back pressure so 3" is ideal

Subject has just been done on wrx.com.au as well http://www.wrx.com.au/forum/viewtopic.php?t=44145

This website also has some discussion (admittedly about Rexes, but the general principle would be applicable to all turbos) http://www.msengineering.com.au/exhaustsystems.html

non turbo guys get 2.25" or 2.5" i myself got 2.25" as more people seemed to recommend that, from my understanding the smaller exhaust is better for lower revs and the slightly larger would benefit when high revving?

duno about turbos tho, everyone ive seen has 3" :(

Edited by leighzor

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So for the wide band is a Bosch 4.9 correct for the Link G4+ along with a Can bus? Just get the Link gear or is generic ok too? Eg here: LINK LINK DIGITAL WIDEBAND CAN MODULE WITH BOSCH 4.9 SENSOR : KYP Performance House  
    • Bit difficult to follow. Have a look below and see what the standard R32 layout was like. Note there was a restrictor in place immediately before "turbocharged pressure control solenoid" that, if removed, magically got you 1 bar boost.
    • I might be way off the mark here.. there must be a T junction under the manifold. That takes manifold pressure through a check valve prior to the T, one side splits out to this bleed off orifice, the other straight to the wastegate actuators. 
    • Carrying out some engine due diligence before my first drive in a 260RS that has been in storage for 10+ years, and found two lines that are susposed to be plumbed into the boost control solenoid. One of the lines (the wastegate boost supply line) to actuate the gates, had a bolt in one end blocking it. The other line (main boost signal line) from the very rear of the intake manifold (RB26DETT) and runs up to the boost controller had this pill in the end of it as seen in photos. Other than the obvious (T28 Ceramic turbos might well be cooked)  Can anyone shed any light on if there is any validity at all with this mod, bleeding a constant fixed rate of manifold boost pressure off through this 3mm hole?  Is it deliberate?  Was this a 90s Jap mod done to RB26's? Or has someone just fitted this without any idea of what happens to ceramic T28s if they are not gate controlled?    
×
×
  • Create New...