Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi.

I have an S1 stagea and just fitted the turbotech boost controller to try and get some more boost out of it. However it seems the more boost i put into it the worse it drives, gauge is showing 10-12psi but the car doesnt seem to move very well, then after about 4500-5000rpm the gauge tapers down to about 7/8psi but the car pulls harder, as in its still doing the factory dual boost settings from what i can feel, but the gauge is showing otherwise ..

Is an ecu and tune nessasary for this to work better?

Cheers, grant.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/185925-boost-control-issues/
Share on other sites

far out mate chill out aye

Hahahahaha :) yeh the guys on here are ruthless. Don't know everything about everything and you're burnt! :thumbsup:

I recently installed a turbotech on a stock ECU/turbo setup, just like the guy who posted this thread. After 11psi the ECU protects the engine by running rich (& retard) so you don't pump too much compressed air into the combustion chamber without enough fuel (as the factory air/fuel ratios haven't been tuned on the factory ECU above this boost setting). If the mixture runs lean you can bust the motor, i.e. warping conrods or the crank, that's why it does this.

For example my R33 'hesitates' when i mash the throttle at 12+psi because it runs rich to keep the engine safe. This is what happens to you by the look of it.

My advice is keep the boost set to 10psi, 11psi MAX. It is better for the stock turbo anyway. If you get the ECU remapped you can take it up to 1bar if the tuner is comfortable with it.

Have fun :wave:

far out mate chill out aye
Hahahahaha :banana: yeh the guys on here are ruthless. Don't know everything about everything and you're burnt! :(

I recently installed a turbotech on a stock ECU/turbo setup, just like the guy who posted this thread. After 11psi the ECU protects the engine by running rich (& retard) so you don't pump too much compressed air into the combustion chamber without enough fuel (as the factory air/fuel ratios haven't been tuned on the factory ECU above this boost setting). If the mixture runs lean you can bust the motor, i.e. warping conrods or the crank, that's why it does this.

For example my R33 'hesitates' when i mash the throttle at 12+psi because it runs rich to keep the engine safe. This is what happens to you by the look of it.

My advice is keep the boost set to 10psi, 11psi MAX. It is better for the stock turbo anyway. If you get the ECU remapped you can take it up to 1bar if the tuner is comfortable with it.

Have fun :nyaanyaa:

what the hell are you guys on about, saying "chill" and that other shit?

I simply gave him a few search terms what would bring up shatloads of threads where this problem has been explained so many times before.

Not point in me typing out the explaination everytime the question pops up, I'd be here everyday, replying to at least 5 threads a day, typing the same old shit, word for word. This would completely defeat the purpose of SAU wouldn't it? f**k, its not MSN messenger... Its a user information database!

This is a message forum - Like a dictionary - when you want something, you search before asking. I simply pointed him in the right direction, in a friendly manner.

The SAME questions get asked over and over again, thats why there is a search function! Sometimes, people just need to know what to search for, hence my post..

fark.........

Its a user information database... ...This is a message forum - Like a dictionary - when you want something, you search before asking...

:nyaanyaa: Good description.

Its often a fine balancing act of "Jelly bean, candy coated and answering every noob Q like it was the first VS bluntly directing ppl to the correct A: and spending our collective time on current unanswered issue's"

2Cents

Edited by GeeTR
  • 3 weeks later...

Yeh this is happening to me as well.. it goes bang pop bang pop which is boost cut. I turned the boost down and i think i'm just borderline.. not sure how it will go @ night might give it extra psi n hit boost cut. It goes up to 12 then down to 9 then creeps up to 10 just a little bit over towards redline. Strange thing about it is in 1st it goes 10-11 already n same in 2nd is the same.. it's quite aggressive and in 3rd to 4th.. sits comfortably in 9-10-11 depending how hard i drive it.

Still running stock ECU but gettn my powerFC tuned.. so i should b able to boost it up to 12psi right guys????

Ta

-SeS

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't know for sure, but I'd expect them all to be interchangeable given the diff end and hub end don't move/change between any C34 series. Often Nissan will change part numbers and the aftermarket follows those year ranges; but the original part number change doesn't mean other parts won't fit. The change could be a change in material, internal parts or even just supplier. For example, all the RB gearbox to engine bolts are no longer available and there is a new part number instead. The only change is they went from cadmium plated bolts to zinc plated due to the issues manufacturing with Cadmium. They look different but work the same.
    • One year is a bit concerning. Did you try contacting GSP? It says 5 year warranty on the box if I remember correctly. I'm also running their driveshafts on my S2 Stagea.   You could check the part numbers on Amayama for your year. Here's the link for my 1998 which gives the 39100-23U60 part number. Well, that and 39100-23U70. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/epc/nissan-japan/stagea/wgnc34/6649-rb25det/trans/391 What does it say for yours?
    • I ordered a GSP Front R/H Axle from here - https://justjap.com/products/gsp-premium-front-driveshaft-r-h-nissan-r32-r33-r34-skyline-gtr-stagea-4wd#description It lasted around a year before one of the boots blew out. I'm lowered, but I have GKTech roll center adjusters. One year seems a little premature. I think I'm going to spend the extra money on an OEM cv axle this time. This website - https://tfaspeed.com/collections/nissan-stagea-wgnc34-x-four-parts/products/nissan-stagea-awc34-260rs-rb26-right-front-axle-drive-assembly Makes it sound like the readily available OEM CV axle will only fit 11.1999 Stagea and up (mine is a 2.1997 S1). The JustJap listing didn't mention any years or anything for the GSP axle. Amayama shows '11.1999' and up as well for that part number. As well as 'plastic boot type'. See attached picture. So I guess my question is, does that axle (39100-23U60) really only fit S2 Stagea? It's the front driver side. If it does, I'd love to buy that instead of rolling the dice on another GSP. I've found that OEM one cheaper here: https://www.partsfornissans.com/oem-parts/nismo-jdm-r32-r33-r34-skyline-gtr-r32-gts4-right-front-axle-3910023u60 and here https://www.nissanparts.cc/oem-parts/nismo-shaft-ft-drive-3910023u60 Just a little confused because the JapSpeed listing for the GSP front driver axle doesn't mention any specific years or anything and it fit my S1 Stagea fine. So will 39100-23U60 fit my S1 Stagea even though technically it says '11.1999' and up? What would have changed? Thanks.  
    • Thanks for the info. The only "Issue" I've had with the shifter is I always found the throw between 4th and 6th gear too close. I'm always worried to shift into 4th accidently and sending my motor to the moon. Adam LZ recently came out with a video and stated Serialnine revised their shifters to correct this and will change all the revised parts for 150$. Strangely enough, I contacted Serialnine right after and they denied it and said it's bullshit. I found that strange as he's a distributer. I'll keep this forum post updated on that saga.
    • Yep that is correct. It allows you to adjust the short throw range from what I can tell
×
×
  • Create New...