Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Nissan Skyline R32 GTR , 1993 year , 78000klms,gun metal grey colour, bride drive side seat, roll cage , fully rebuilt engine with forgied pistons ( $7000 receipt included) 2 brand new ball bearing turbos, ABS brakes, long rego, excellent condition ,no scratches or dents, still uner deale warranty

$18200 ono

0431402158 Paul

Edited by Pashka
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/186086-nissan-skyline-gtr-r32-93year/
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

What's up man? Can you give me some more details on the motor? What was done, what parts were used, how long ago, why it was rebuilt at 78k etc? Was the clutch done at the same time? Are there any issue with the car? Does everything work ( all accessories etc and power functions) ? Any suspension work done? Life of the tires? I see it has a new head unit, any other stereo work done? The cage, is it bolt in or welded in, how many points, back seat still accessible etc? Do you have a history of the car? Whats the story on the warranty? I'm in Melb so thanks for your time, I'd only want to make one trip if this one turns out to be the right ride. I'm seriously interested. thanks

hey like i said most of the stuf for u over the phone

engine is been rebuilt by Jonny fro CV performance

usind all brand new parts( turbos and clutch)

that is not my car , i am sellig it for my boss ( he onwer of Version one Autoimports)

and that used to be his own car and he had it about a year but now he is got V35 skyline so this one is for sale

we loosing big time in that car , ( we have receipts for more then 7 grand) plus the car was cost us 17 so yeah for those people who offered me 15-16 grand sorry but NO

Edited by Pashka

hey man body is stright , front and back all original so never had any front end or back end damage

however car is been fully resprayed ( by underwood smash repairs) becouse when its came from Japan all clear wasnt shiny and it was burnt by the sun so its been professinaly resprayed

engine rebuilt was done about a year ago and car only did like 6-7 thousands after

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...