Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey people

CAR: Nissan Skyline R33 GTS25T

MODS: Fmic, Bov, EBC, Air filter

After i installed my fmic it is now crunching in 5th. I has never cruched it 5th not really at high revs but aroung the 100km mark....................do you think is clutch problem, or do i need a fuel pump, or what .....

ideas need

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/186274-crunch/
Share on other sites

I doubt the FMIC install affected your crunching in 5th. Probably just a coincidence, does it do it every single time you shift into 5th? Try double clutching and see if it helps.

Also, what does a fuel pump have to do with your gears crunching? :mellow:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/186274-crunch/#findComment-3367858
Share on other sites

I doubt the FMIC install affected your crunching in 5th. Probably just a coincidence, does it do it every single time you shift into 5th? Try double clutching and see if it helps.

Also, what does a fuel pump have to do with your gears crunching? :mellow:

I dunno about that the fuel pump has to do........just a thought

double clutch it ............... i know how to double clutch

but what double clutch in 5th

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/186274-crunch/#findComment-3367880
Share on other sites

how can your car idle at 6000rpm? do you mean 600rpm? coz 600 is normal.

NA NA NA NA SORRY BOYS

I MEANT 600

my idle needs to be a 750

reckon my idle need to be up

i was also told it might also be a spark plug problem

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/186274-crunch/#findComment-3369895
Share on other sites

You car idling at 600rpm has nothing to do with gears crunching in 5th dude.

It also (the crunching) has nothing to do with a FMIC.

5th crunching is the synchro's letting go or the clutch being a bit so-so possibly in some way.

Totally unrelated to the points you've raised here

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/186274-crunch/#findComment-3370035
Share on other sites

You car idling at 600rpm has nothing to do with gears crunching in 5th dude.

It also (the crunching) has nothing to do with a FMIC.

5th crunching is the synchro's letting go or the clutch being a bit so-so possibly in some way.

Totally unrelated to the points you've raised here

thank for that.................. Well i have Xtreme heavy duty cutch ....and my pedal is a bit high

this is wierd cause it only happen when it is above 100km not under

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/186274-crunch/#findComment-3370161
Share on other sites

just wear on you synchro's man. try double clutching as mentioned. i don't know enough to explain it, but it feels like releasing the clutch and then pushing it in again gives things a chance to align more nicely than doing the whole change in one motion.

e.g.

clutch > de-select 4th > neutral (clutch position same as when de-selecting 4th) > select 5th > release clutch [things haven't had a chance to re-align from a neutral point]

v

clutch > de-select 4th > release clutch > true neutral > clutch (fresh clutch engagement :P ) > select 5th > release clutch

[things have hit neutral without the clutch affecting it - the best starting point to select any gear. it's just a more box-friendly and often a more solid engagement]

remember 5th is also possibly the least 'sure holding' gear in your gearset and in worn boxes can just slip out of gear. think of it as if you're rock climbing and 5th is the last hand hold and you have to stretch and grab it with just the tips of your fingers... errm.. [note to self, shut the f*ck up with all these weird analogies you come up with!?!?]

Edited by made_guy
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/186274-crunch/#findComment-3373582
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • End game is to: - Remove all the slop from old worn parts - Adjust setup so that the wheels actually fit and the car is drivable (currently it is not because of the extreme rubbing on the guards).   Progress over the last couple of days, removed the rear hubs! Next steps: - Buy bushings - Replace bushings/bearings on hub - Reinstall
    • Cracked deck  And other cam snap stuff   
    • A few random issues have popped up since my last update. My WMI pressure sensor failed within about 10 minutes of it seeing liquid. It was a 20$ China special, so I'm not surprised. My name brand replacement should arrive today.  My power steering assist also decided to crap out last weekend. The usual, works for about 60 seconds after starting the car then I lose it. I dusted off my old copy of NDS and connected to the HICAS ECU. Code 4 for assist solenoid.... I tested the solenoid and it's fine.  I knew the day where my HICAS ecu would crap out would come, and I welcome it. It was the last HICAS part on the car that is now in the bin. I've ordered an SSR and I will control the power steering solenoid with my Haltech ecu. It will be nice to have proper speed referenced assist again after all these years.   
    • Haha I just finished the last season of TPB: Jail last month. I'm happy they're still pumping out episodes. 
×
×
  • Create New...