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CAR: Nissan Skyline R33 GTS25T

MODS: Fmic, Bov, EBC, Air filter

After i installed my fmic it is now crunching in 5th. I has never cruched it 5th not really at high revs but aroung the 100km mark....................do you think is clutch problem, or do i need a fuel pump, or what .....

ideas need

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I doubt the FMIC install affected your crunching in 5th. Probably just a coincidence, does it do it every single time you shift into 5th? Try double clutching and see if it helps.

Also, what does a fuel pump have to do with your gears crunching? :mellow:

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I doubt the FMIC install affected your crunching in 5th. Probably just a coincidence, does it do it every single time you shift into 5th? Try double clutching and see if it helps.

Also, what does a fuel pump have to do with your gears crunching? :mellow:

I dunno about that the fuel pump has to do........just a thought

double clutch it ............... i know how to double clutch

but what double clutch in 5th

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how can your car idle at 6000rpm? do you mean 600rpm? coz 600 is normal.

NA NA NA NA SORRY BOYS

I MEANT 600

my idle needs to be a 750

reckon my idle need to be up

i was also told it might also be a spark plug problem

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You car idling at 600rpm has nothing to do with gears crunching in 5th dude.

It also (the crunching) has nothing to do with a FMIC.

5th crunching is the synchro's letting go or the clutch being a bit so-so possibly in some way.

Totally unrelated to the points you've raised here

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You car idling at 600rpm has nothing to do with gears crunching in 5th dude.

It also (the crunching) has nothing to do with a FMIC.

5th crunching is the synchro's letting go or the clutch being a bit so-so possibly in some way.

Totally unrelated to the points you've raised here

thank for that.................. Well i have Xtreme heavy duty cutch ....and my pedal is a bit high

this is wierd cause it only happen when it is above 100km not under

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just wear on you synchro's man. try double clutching as mentioned. i don't know enough to explain it, but it feels like releasing the clutch and then pushing it in again gives things a chance to align more nicely than doing the whole change in one motion.

e.g.

clutch > de-select 4th > neutral (clutch position same as when de-selecting 4th) > select 5th > release clutch [things haven't had a chance to re-align from a neutral point]

v

clutch > de-select 4th > release clutch > true neutral > clutch (fresh clutch engagement :P ) > select 5th > release clutch

[things have hit neutral without the clutch affecting it - the best starting point to select any gear. it's just a more box-friendly and often a more solid engagement]

remember 5th is also possibly the least 'sure holding' gear in your gearset and in worn boxes can just slip out of gear. think of it as if you're rock climbing and 5th is the last hand hold and you have to stretch and grab it with just the tips of your fingers... errm.. [note to self, shut the f*ck up with all these weird analogies you come up with!?!?]

Edited by made_guy
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