Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

Last week my alarm decided to crack the sads with me. What happened was this.

With the Turbo Timer still counting down I arrived at work, closed the doors, got something out of the boot, closed it. Walked away from the car and went to arm it. The locking alert sound went but then it was followed by a second chirp. I went back to the car to see what was up. Turns out that I didnt close the drivers door properly, it was slightly ajar.

Problem is ever since, I cant lock and arm the car with the remote or have the motion sensor activate. The auto imobiliser still comes on after 30 seconds of shut down.

I can:

*Press the button on the remote, the light works

*lock the car with the original factory key (central locking)

*Disarm the car with the 4-digit override pin and start it

However I cannot:

*use the M80 remote to lock / unlock the doors

*use the M80 remote to arm the motion sensor

*use the M80 to disarm the motion sensor and imobiliser

Any ideas? It sure sucks atm having to do the 4-digit override with the alarm beeping every time I need to go somewhere. I dont feel comfortable knowing the motion sensor isnt working when I leave my car unlocked either. :domokun:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/186429-mongoose-m80-problem/
Share on other sites

I have the same alarm.... although when that happens.. I just unlock it with the remote.... so unarmed... shut the door properly and rearm!

Sometimes I have buggered it up/confused it or something - so basically I had to unarm...shut the car down... turn the key to reds and turn off to reset the TT etc... and then lock again..

When you go to arm the car now... does it sound any warning signals such as a door is still open etc??? Possibly one of the sensors that determines that something is open are broken??? What happens if you shut the TT down straight away and try to arm? Does the alarm siren go off?? It should if it is still reading that a door is open and it isn't in the delayed TT mode

When you go to arm the car now... does it sound any warning signals such as a door is still open etc??? Possibly one of the sensors that determines that something is open are broken??? What happens if you shut the TT down straight away and try to arm? Does the alarm siren go off?? It should if it is still reading that a door is open and it isn't in the delayed TT mode

When I try to arm the car, it doesnt make any sound or signal.......doesnt matter if I try leave it running or off.

so have you lost the remote control side of it or does taht still work?

if so I'll send you the book (email pls) and you can rekey both remotes.

Cheers for the book mate, I managed to get the alarm into learning mode and tried to rekey the remote but still nothing.

Silly question but the batteries tend to die instantly in my M80... have you tried replacing them? Even though there will still be the LED flashing on the remote, there isn't enough power to transmit the signal....

All your problems you described also happen when the remote batteries need replacing, hence why I always have a spare battery on me!

Even though there will still be the LED flashing on the remote, there isn't enough power to transmit the signal....

Bingo! How easy is that.

I trusted the remote because the LED still flashed, next time I shouldnt assume :( . Spare remote works fine.

Cheers msnismo :(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't. I mean, mine's not a GTR, but it is a 32 with a lot of GTR stuff on it. But regardless, I typically buy from local suppliers. Getting stuff from Japan is seldom worth the pain. Buying from RHDJapan usually ends up in the final total of your basket being about double what you thought it would be, after all the bullshit fees and such are added on.
    • The hydrocarbon component of E10 can be shittier, and is in fact, shittier, than that used in normal 91RON fuel. That's because the octane boost provided by the ethanol allows them to use stuff that doesn't make the grade without the help. The 1c/L saving typically available on E10 is going to be massively overridden by the increased consumption caused by the ethanol and the crappier HC (ie the HCs will be less dense, meaning that there will definitely be less energy per unit volume than for more dense HCs). That is one of the reasons why P98 will return better fuel consumption than 91 does, even with the ignition timing completely fixed. There is more energy per unit volume because the HCs used in 98 are higher density than in the lawnmower fuel.
    • No, I'd suggest that that is the checklist for pneumatic/hydraulic adjustable systems. I would say, based on my years of reading and complying with Australian Standards and similar regulations, that the narrow interpretation of Clause 3.2 b would be the preferred/expected/intended one, by the author, and those using the standard. Wishful thinking need not apply.
    • Yes they do. For some maybe. But for those used the most by abusers, ie Skylines, the numbers are known. The stock eyebrow height for R32/3 Skylines is about 365/375mm or thereabouts. The minimum such heights are recorded in adjacent columns in the database.
    • Hmmm, interesting. Makes me wonder whether there is bias as well. It's the cheapest fuel, so it is used for all kinds of ill-maintained shitboxes which are bound to have issues regardless. Nicer cars tend to require higher octane rated fuel and can't use it anyway. FWIW, the official NSW E10 facts page is decent. 
×
×
  • Create New...