Jump to content
SAU Community

Mongoose M80 Problem

AnFz

By AnFz,
in Car Audio & Electrical

 Share

Recommended Posts

AnFz Enthusiast

AnFz

Posted
Posted

Hey all,

Last week my alarm decided to crack the sads with me. What happened was this.

With the Turbo Timer still counting down I arrived at work, closed the doors, got something out of the boot, closed it. Walked away from the car and went to arm it. The locking alert sound went but then it was followed by a second chirp. I went back to the car to see what was up. Turns out that I didnt close the drivers door properly, it was slightly ajar.

Problem is ever since, I cant lock and arm the car with the remote or have the motion sensor activate. The auto imobiliser still comes on after 30 seconds of shut down.

I can:

*Press the button on the remote, the light works

*lock the car with the original factory key (central locking)

*Disarm the car with the 4-digit override pin and start it

However I cannot:

*use the M80 remote to lock / unlock the doors

*use the M80 remote to arm the motion sensor

*use the M80 to disarm the motion sensor and imobiliser

Any ideas? It sure sucks atm having to do the 4-digit override with the alarm beeping every time I need to go somewhere. I dont feel comfortable knowing the motion sensor isnt working when I leave my car unlocked either. :domokun:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/186429-mongoose-m80-problem/
Share on other sites
msnismo Grand Master

msnismo

Posted
Posted

I have the same alarm.... although when that happens.. I just unlock it with the remote.... so unarmed... shut the door properly and rearm!

Sometimes I have buggered it up/confused it or something - so basically I had to unarm...shut the car down... turn the key to reds and turn off to reset the TT etc... and then lock again..

When you go to arm the car now... does it sound any warning signals such as a door is still open etc??? Possibly one of the sensors that determines that something is open are broken??? What happens if you shut the TT down straight away and try to arm? Does the alarm siren go off?? It should if it is still reading that a door is open and it isn't in the delayed TT mode

AnFz Enthusiast

AnFz

Posted
  • Author
Posted
When you go to arm the car now... does it sound any warning signals such as a door is still open etc??? Possibly one of the sensors that determines that something is open are broken??? What happens if you shut the TT down straight away and try to arm? Does the alarm siren go off?? It should if it is still reading that a door is open and it isn't in the delayed TT mode

When I try to arm the car, it doesnt make any sound or signal.......doesnt matter if I try leave it running or off.

so have you lost the remote control side of it or does taht still work?

if so I'll send you the book (email pls) and you can rekey both remotes.

Cheers for the book mate, I managed to get the alarm into learning mode and tried to rekey the remote but still nothing.

msnismo Grand Master

msnismo

Posted
Posted

Silly question but the batteries tend to die instantly in my M80... have you tried replacing them? Even though there will still be the LED flashing on the remote, there isn't enough power to transmit the signal....

All your problems you described also happen when the remote batteries need replacing, hence why I always have a spare battery on me!

AnFz Enthusiast

AnFz

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Even though there will still be the LED flashing on the remote, there isn't enough power to transmit the signal....

Bingo! How easy is that.

I trusted the remote because the LED still flashed, next time I shouldnt assume :( . Spare remote works fine.

Cheers msnismo :(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      R32 GTST - 600KW+ RB28/CD009 Build

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      LOL.... a good amount of people (not all) on that continent seem to know everything and like to measure things in bananas, football fields, statue of liberties instead of the metric system lol.
    • dawhitehonky
      M35 Aftermarket Fuel Pump

      By dawhitehonky · Posted

      I assume the modules are similar enough, so if you've had no issues I don't see why I would. I have tried to find a wiring diagram for the FPCM / fuel pump circuit, but I can't find it anywhere. Otherwise, I would just do some wire cutting and joining at the FPCM and give the 12 V supplied to the FPCM directly to the pump instead. If you know anyone that could help with wiring diagrams, I'd be very happy  
    • GTSBoy
      M35 Aftermarket Fuel Pump

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      If it dies, then bypass. The task isn't difficult. I have one running on a standard R32 FPCM. That's after nearly 20 years of it running an 040, which pull substantially more current than the Walbro. They're not the same module, but I'd hope it indicates that the R33 one should be man enough for the job. I think people kill them when putting proper sized pumps on them, not these little toy pumps we're talking about here.
    • GTSBoy
      Rapid-fire squeaking/creaking from rear suspension

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Silicone spray won't hurt anything. And if it does, that's an opportunity to put some solid steel spherical bushings in, so you can really learn what suspension noise sounds like, If you're going to try it, just spray one bush at a time, so you can work out which one is actually noisy. My best guess is that if the noise started only since putting the coilovers in, then it is just noise being transmitted up through the top mounts of the struts, and not necessarily "new" noise from bushes. But it's almost impossible to know.
    • GTSBoy
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Are you saying the 34 is SUV height, and not that we're talking about an SUV here? (because if we're talking about an SUV, you don't fix them. You just replace them when something breaks. Not worth establishing sufficient emotional connection with an SUV to warrant doing any work on one). I wouldn't jack my car up on a short little loop of 10mm steel rod poking out through a hole in the bumper bar, front or rear end. I realise that we're probably not talking about that type of loop at the front, being the one under/behind the bar on a Skyline.... but even for that one, trying to jack up on what amounts to a thin piece of steel, designed purely for withstanding a horizontal tension force, not a vertical compressive force (and so would be prone to buckling/crushing) and, my most particular bitch about it - located RIGHT AT THE EXTREME FRONT OF THE CAR, applying a load up through the radiator support panel, etc, with almost the entire mass of the car cantilevered between there and the rear wheels? Nope. Not doing that. Not on the regular. That structure out there in front of the front crossmember is not designed to carry load in the vertical direction. Not really designed to carry any load at all, really. The chassis rail that the tow point is connected to would be fine loaded in tension, as per towing. Not intended to carry the mass of the whole car, especially loaded all on one rail, with twisting and all sorts of shitty load distribution going on. No, I will happily drive up on some pieces of wood, thanks. That can only happen on driven wheels, and they are at the other end of the car, and this problem does not exist at that end of the car. And even then, I have been known to drive up on at least 1x piece of 2x8 each side at the rear, simply to reduce the amount of jack pumping necessary to get the car up high enough for the jack stands. What really really shits me about Skylines is the lack of decent places for chassis stands at either end of the car. You'd think they'd be designed into the crossmembers.
×
×
  • Create New...