Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys

just finished the following mods: 440cc inj, tomei fuel pump + fuel regulator, greddy emanage ultimate, prfect b. already have a cooler, pod, turbs back 3"exhaust. Am producing around 175kw. Looking at gettin more power without increasing the actual size of the turbo what would i go with next for more power? am open to high flowing but thats about it in the way of the turbo as i dont want it to stand out if being defected!

any ideas would be helpful and is this the amount of power youd expect with these mods?

cheers guys.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/187102-new-mods-completedwhat-next/
Share on other sites

That is massive amounts of power out of a hyundai getz. :(

maybe you should update your cars section of you profile so that we know what you own and can better advise!!! :no:

lol...I have a getz aswell...dont bad the hyundai's...unless its an EXCEL!! :rofl:

Ryan

Not too sure what car you have, but i recently pulled 171kw at boostworx without larger injectors or a different ecu, would think you'd pull more than 4 extra kw with those mods but i could be wrong

On the cheap side, you can get a RB25 turbo, which is just slightly bigger than the 20 and it will look just like stock, remap the ECU and youll be around 190rwkw (at least I was)

Sell the emanage, to cover some of the costs, and enjoy!

Not too sure what car you have, but i recently pulled 171kw at boostworx without larger injectors or a different ecu, would think you'd pull more than 4 extra kw with those mods but i could be wrong

he has to be talking about an RB20 dude, why bother upgrading injectors and pump and regulator to get only 170kw. It has to be an old lazy RB20 :)

he has to be talking about an RB20 dude, why bother upgrading injectors and pump and regulator to get only 170kw. It has to be an old lazy RB20 :ninja:

i don't think the rb20 standard turbo can even handle 175 kw and last for more than a week. upgrading injectors and pump wont produce much more power unless you have the air flow to make it, like a bigger turbo. you'd be able to get a little bit out of it with the EMU but not that big of a step for the rb20 on a standard turbo.

looks like its a good base for a turbo upgrade. if your worried about a turbo upgrade getting unwanted attention then a high flow is definantly the go. you've already got the supporting mods to make some good power.

Edited by QWK32

thanks for the suggestions guys. Lol and and dont bag the hyundai. Nothing wrong with korean made cars......lol

as some of you have guessed, the car is an rb20. i like the sound of the new afm and high-flowed turbo. im guessin a z32 afm is legal still??

thanks for the suggestions guys. Lol and and dont bag the hyundai. Nothing wrong with korean made cars......lol

as some of you have guessed, the car is an rb20. i like the sound of the new afm and high-flowed turbo. im guessin a z32 afm is legal still??

if you want it to still look stock but go a fair bit harder, pick yourself up a forklift bottom end and chuck all your top end goodies on it.

that and a highflow will get you up around 230 / 250 kws, and still look like a stocker.

bottom ends can be had for around the $100 mark and then find yourself a second hand rb25 highflow from the fs section, and for $1000 you will gain 75 kws.

cheap power really.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi guys, just after some guidance with an R34 sunroof that has stopped working correctly. It still opens and closes perfectly fine, but it no longer tilts/vents up or down. As a result, the rear of the glass now sags a bit as it drops down slightly in order to retract into the roof, but now it can't pop upwards into a flush position. I’ve probed the pins on the back of the switch connector with a multimeter and it seems like both switches (for open/close and tilt/vent) still work correctly. Any ideas on what it could be, or where I should even start in terms of diagnosing? I'm sure someone's had this issue before but I haven't been able to find anything online relating to this specific issue, most of the issues are with the seals leaking or the motor failing entirely. Thanks in advance!
    • Do you have some data like fuel pressure? It's really hard to say if you're still fighting a fuel system issue at this point. Could be something weird like the FPCM dipping out.
    • Yeah in that case, pulling the dent out. Event a very slight dent can create a lot of work filler-wise and there is a strong chance the panel won't be the factory shape when you are done (as the dent will result in a new high point created somewhere, then everything is brought up to that new high point... but the panel shouldn't be that high if that makes sense).  So you've filled and primed the panel and it is flat, why would you go back and remove the primer and add more filler? 
    • Something else I have been faffing with while the car was off the road is making the AC work. Assuming the car isn't at a thermal limit the idea of having AC while waiting in line to go on track sounds delightful. I have actually been lugging around the weight of the entire system since 2018 when the RB25NEO went in without it working at all.  The main reason was in the first few events before I got around to re-gassing it the rubber hose that runs under the manifold had the factory heat wrap/sleeve fail resulting in this: ~2 years ago I purchased a complete used R32 AC line set but when I finally went to install it the line i needed was different where the expansion section is I found a local place that was able to replace the rubber section and re-crimp. They also added some modern heat sleeve to the hose Tight fit but fingers crossed this is the last physical piece of the puzzle needed
    • the top black section is bonded to the silver section with some form of rubber. I assume to isolated NVH from the box
×
×
  • Create New...