Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys

just finished the following mods: 440cc inj, tomei fuel pump + fuel regulator, greddy emanage ultimate, prfect b. already have a cooler, pod, turbs back 3"exhaust. Am producing around 175kw. Looking at gettin more power without increasing the actual size of the turbo what would i go with next for more power? am open to high flowing but thats about it in the way of the turbo as i dont want it to stand out if being defected!

any ideas would be helpful and is this the amount of power youd expect with these mods?

cheers guys.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/187102-new-mods-completedwhat-next/
Share on other sites

That is massive amounts of power out of a hyundai getz. :(

maybe you should update your cars section of you profile so that we know what you own and can better advise!!! :no:

lol...I have a getz aswell...dont bad the hyundai's...unless its an EXCEL!! :rofl:

Ryan

Not too sure what car you have, but i recently pulled 171kw at boostworx without larger injectors or a different ecu, would think you'd pull more than 4 extra kw with those mods but i could be wrong

On the cheap side, you can get a RB25 turbo, which is just slightly bigger than the 20 and it will look just like stock, remap the ECU and youll be around 190rwkw (at least I was)

Sell the emanage, to cover some of the costs, and enjoy!

Not too sure what car you have, but i recently pulled 171kw at boostworx without larger injectors or a different ecu, would think you'd pull more than 4 extra kw with those mods but i could be wrong

he has to be talking about an RB20 dude, why bother upgrading injectors and pump and regulator to get only 170kw. It has to be an old lazy RB20 :)

he has to be talking about an RB20 dude, why bother upgrading injectors and pump and regulator to get only 170kw. It has to be an old lazy RB20 :ninja:

i don't think the rb20 standard turbo can even handle 175 kw and last for more than a week. upgrading injectors and pump wont produce much more power unless you have the air flow to make it, like a bigger turbo. you'd be able to get a little bit out of it with the EMU but not that big of a step for the rb20 on a standard turbo.

looks like its a good base for a turbo upgrade. if your worried about a turbo upgrade getting unwanted attention then a high flow is definantly the go. you've already got the supporting mods to make some good power.

Edited by QWK32

thanks for the suggestions guys. Lol and and dont bag the hyundai. Nothing wrong with korean made cars......lol

as some of you have guessed, the car is an rb20. i like the sound of the new afm and high-flowed turbo. im guessin a z32 afm is legal still??

thanks for the suggestions guys. Lol and and dont bag the hyundai. Nothing wrong with korean made cars......lol

as some of you have guessed, the car is an rb20. i like the sound of the new afm and high-flowed turbo. im guessin a z32 afm is legal still??

if you want it to still look stock but go a fair bit harder, pick yourself up a forklift bottom end and chuck all your top end goodies on it.

that and a highflow will get you up around 230 / 250 kws, and still look like a stocker.

bottom ends can be had for around the $100 mark and then find yourself a second hand rb25 highflow from the fs section, and for $1000 you will gain 75 kws.

cheap power really.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...