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be careful mate, 15-16psi is too high on the standard turbos, either turn it back down to 14 or go for steel wheel turbos - plenty of people have killed their motor when standard turbos have let go.....

CRD really know their gtrs right up to top level race cars, but you pay for the expertise. If you are looking for normal sort of gtr performance say 300-400kw there are heaps of cheaper places to go, and much cheaper places to buy parts.

I'm not running stock 32 turbos, at the moment it is fitted with stock R34 turbos which are actually smaller then 32 turbos but are a roller bearing turbo with steal blades. The advantage of being smaller is they come on boost instantly, the disadvantage is they dont stay on for long, it has a tendancy to run out of legs above 6000rpm, it comes on from about 2500rpm. This is why I am cautious of what turbos I use, I will be changing them, but I really dont want to loose the responsiveness, it is quite awsome at the moment, until it runs out of steam that is. But I know I can t have everything, I just want to get the happy medium.

Keep in mind mate that both the rb26dett and the 2jz are outstanding motors.

The 2jz tends not to rev as fast but makes more turque and can make extreme power levels.

Both motors will make over the 1000hp mark and take more money than you could dream of very easily.

And i have seen Create 2jz motors OVER the 1000hp mark in america.

From what i am aware they can make more power from stock internals than the rb's but you have past that hurdle with the forgies...

1000hp is pointless.

Stock R34 GTR turbos have ceramic exhaust wheels afaik which means you go blow them with too much boost. I think a happy medium turbo would be HKS GT-SS with which you can get 300awkw with cams but it will be very responsive and very little lag but the N1's are a good choice too.

You will find on reading this site that there are at least a thousand different opinions on what's god and what's not so you need to do a lot of reading and make up your own mind. I could write you a shopping list and send you places to buy the stuff and get it fitted but half the fun is figuring it out yourself. Yes you will make mistakes and sometimes get frustrated but overall it's great fun. Just don't add up the cost. :)

my gtr is a everyday driver and i'm making 360kw at all four wheels(CRD 4wd dyno) with room to get more with afm upgrades and adjustable cam gears( which will be done in the next 2 weeks). and the quickest way to do it to beat the pants off a supra(or almost any car) is with a big single turbo,injectors,cams, fuel reg and pump, a good computer and a good intercooler with someone like CRD tuning it!! it'll be laggy till 5500rpm but then all hell breaks loose.

this is my r32 gtr and this is how the engine bay should look like when your done:

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x74/tnt...co/100_0009.jpg

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x74/tnt...co/100_0003.jpg

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x74/tnt...co/100_0006.jpg

if you need to know about anything else about what was done, pm me.

ps don't forget a good clutch and flywheel

Edited by tbag
my gtr is a everyday driver and i'm making 360kw at all four wheels(CRD 4wd dyno) with room to get more with afm upgrades and adjustable cam gears( which will be done in the next 2 weeks). and the quickest way to do it to beat the pants off a supra(or almost any car) is with a big single turbo,injectors,cams, fuel reg and pump, a good computer and a good intercooler with someone like CRD tuning it!! it'll be laggy till 5500rpm but then all hell breaks loose.

this is my r32 gtr and this is how the engine bay should look like when your done:

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x74/tnt...co/100_0009.jpg

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x74/tnt...co/100_0003.jpg

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x74/tnt...co/100_0006.jpg

if you need to know about anything else about what was done, pm me.

ps don't forget a good clutch and flywheel

lol rb20 covers..

love it

Forged Pistons.

Stronger rods.

FPR upgrade.

PFC.

700's Sard

Dual spec R boost controller.

Bosch 044. (minimum)

Coils upgraded.

N1's.

Apexi SSK Air filter system.

Remove/check if old airbox inlet is still half there(Remove)

Dump pipes.

Clutch.

22psi +

= 500hp plus.

BTW.... Good Dyno setup. A MUST..!!

Hi, could please tell me which N1's you got, the 2869R-5 or 2860R-7? and what sore of power are you making? Im not sure which ones to buy, the -5's make more power but with a little more lag, the -7's are suposed to be quite responsive but max out at 350awkw.

Im not sure which ones i know for sure they are r34 GTR N1s Made by Nissan Not garret Copies i can check the receipt for you . I have been to a few dynos everyone brings out a different Reading . All on Safe Tunes Ive had One At 315 RWKW , And ive had One at 310 KW At the 4's , To be honest with you mate Dyno readings are nothing to me its how Much torquie the car has . You can get the car to 350 Kws at the wheels. But you have to understand the Turbos max out there . Im driving Mine on a safe tune and i still cant handle the car .. i guarantee you on the streetwith n1s you would not have a problem what so ever...

Meh all this talk about bigger turbo's and $10k her n there... you've had the car how many weeks and done how many runs?

Just throw on some M/T drag radial tyres (on stock R32 GTR 16x8 rims) make sure your clutch is good and go do 20 runs with 7000-8000rpm launches and watch your time drop after each run.

I'm sure just from practicing you would cut a 12sec flat and probably spend less than $1000 for rubber and entry fee's.

If your still in need of abit more time throw on a set of adjustable cam gears + poncams for $850 (business trading section) get them fitted and your ecu retuned and do another 20 runs.

Meh all this talk about bigger turbo's and $10k her n there... you've had the car how many weeks and done how many runs?

Just throw on some M/T drag radial tyres (on stock R32 GTR 16x8 rims) make sure your clutch is good and go do 20 runs with 7000-8000rpm launches and watch your time drop after each run.

I'm sure just from practicing you would cut a 12sec flat and probably spend less than $1000 for rubber and entry fee's.

If your still in need of abit more time throw on a set of adjustable cam gears + poncams for $850 (business trading section) get them fitted and your ecu retuned and do another 20 runs.

Hi, yes that would be ok but this is where we have problems, 1st, It had cam gears fitted however because of the crap computer, (its an old EMS which cannot be connected to a laptop and must be tuned with a hand controler) the cam gears cannot be tuned. Or so I am told, also I would like to get it quick as a street car, I like the fact that I can drive to the track race then drive home, and excatly how I drove it to the track I drive it to work the next day. When I did a 12.8 that was with 1/2 tank fuel, cheap road tyres and subs stereo, spare tyre, work bag all in the car, exactly how I drive it every day, so I believe this is a true indication of what the car can do. Of course if I strip it bare and run slicks it will be quicker, but thats not my goal. Thanks anyway

Benm is talking some sense The Power FC is great I have one in my GTR and has made a world of difference with a great tune...Thanks Brad ;)

Also another good option is the haltech and has so many functions and quite a few tuners around that are good with them :D

I havent done that many mods and getting alot of power out of my car but I am not sure what is done to mine..Im finding out as I go along and its been a nice surprise :)

BTW welcome to the club :(

Intersting plenum set-up on that car, looks to be a orignal plenum with the 6 throttles removed anda big single fitted?? correct me if im wrong??

If its running one of the old EMS' then definitly look into a power FC or an E11V2 would be my persoanl pick. Those EMS' actually work reasonably well for what they were origianlly designed to run. Be warey however if its a plug in adaptor loom or has been hard wired into the factory loom. This will effect your choice dramaticly unless your willing to purchase a new "virgin" loom

Cams gears can be fitted and nutted out without ECU tunning, your not going to get the best from them but still worth getting done now. Whilst its there might as well do the water pump and timing belt to be sure!

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