Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys, im on a budget = :laugh: =casual worker

i am considering a t70 turbo.

i have heard both good and bad things. i know of about 50 ppl with them with no probs

have any of you actually used one

i will only be boosting 10-15psi, nothing extreme.

specs:

Front Cover A/R .7

Front wheel trim 64.5mm

Rear Cover A/R .82 t3 flange

Rear wheel trim 60.5mm

Edited by r33cruiser

yeap - they are big, laggy, and a waste of time putting one on a Standard engine running 10-15psi.

15psi out of one of these things is enough to push a standard engine to blow actually. Proceed with caution.

What brand is it? Garrett?

yea garret,

cheers for your response mate.

then would it be better to get something with an a/r of .60. eg a t66?

but im after 1st hand experience, not inuendo.

Edited by r33cruiser

LoL, AR has nothing to do with the naming convention of the turbo. A T04z rear turbine housing for instance, comes in AR's of .70, .84, 1.00, 1.15, 1.32. The AR is the ratio of the cross sectional area of the turbine nozzle : distance from the centerline of that area to the centre of the turbine wheel.

IE: You can get a .70 AR capable of flowing 200hp, you can get a .70 AR capable of flowing 900hp

Your best bets to learn the limits of various stock bits of peices you have. injectors, pump etc etc, and then size a turbo that will be useful to you, in that power window. High flows are popular.

This LINK will help show you what you can do, with what parts

Thanks

Edited by GeeTR

cheers, guys, i might just go for a smaller to4 option, dont want to blow it up.

as for the semantics, asume i have all supporting mods, but stock internals

Edited by r33cruiser
cheers, guys, i might just go for a smaller to4 option, dont want to blow it up.

as for the semantics, asume i have all supporting mods, but stock internals

Turbo's dont blow motors, the amount of air they move with insufficient fueling does.

If you have the pump, injectors, spark, and way of controlling it all, then you'll be ok, its then up to you how much boost you run on the stock motor.

Turbo's dont blow motors, the amount of air they move with insufficient fueling does.

If you have the pump, injectors, spark, and way of controlling it all, then you'll be ok, its then up to you how much boost you run on the stock motor.

cheers mate, yea i have 550cc'ers, 040 pump, and jjr coils and iridium plugs.

im just a bit worried, as mafia said, i wouldnt want to go past 15psi. and lag, heard, theres nothin till about 5k.

so i will go a slightly smaller t04b turbo instead.

thx for all ur comments

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...