Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

Well after recently fixing the fuel system, the car's decided to crap itself again.

Basically, if i leave it for a few hours, the car will kick over and maybe struggle around 200-250rpm (checked on e-manage ultimate) but eventually turn off. Subsequent attempts to start it result in just cranking and cranking with the engine sounding like it's on the edge of starting.

Fuel pump primes fine, i've checked fuel pressure just before the fuel pressure reg and it's spurting out plenty while cranking.

The E-manage ultimate registers an AFM voltage while cranking so it's getting air. Playing with the throttle while cranking or while it's struggling makes no difference.

The EMU also shows the RPM it's cranking over at, so the CAS is working.

The spark plugs shouldn't be fouled as the car drove fine the night before and simply refused to start in the morning.

All fuses under the dash, in the engine bay, and in the boot are fine.

Is about 180-250rpm the correct cranking speed? It sounds like the normal speed audibly.

Any other ideas? I'd appreciate any help here.

Cheers guys, I'll post up the fix when i get it again.

Edited by govich
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/188074-r33-wont-fire/
Share on other sites

OK i've checked the pulsing to the injectors and that's fine, the grey wire gets constant 12V and the white wire gets grounded on and off.

I found my battery was down to 11.8V so i'm charging it overnight, it could be that the battery is too flat to run the car. I doubt it though as the morning it wouldn't start was only about 7-8 hours after it'd been running for a good 20 minutes, and i've been cranking the car on and off for a few days . It's charging at the moment though, i definitely hope it's something simple like this :P

Would the car struggle to start/run if the voltage was too low? It's still cranking fine so i'm thinking these two are mutually exclusive.

Edited by govich
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/188074-r33-wont-fire/#findComment-3393459
Share on other sites

I dont think it would be your battery mate, mine was going flat for a while but as long as the starter motor cranked it started!!

Cheers, yeah, i don't know why i thought that'd fix it anyway.

Has anyone had a fuel pressure regulator fail on them? What are the symptoms like? It's all i can think of at the moment.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/188074-r33-wont-fire/#findComment-3394342
Share on other sites

Now i've discovered something interesting. I can't get error codes out of the ECU because there's no power to either of the pins on the Consult connector (tested with a test light), so bridging them does nothing. Anyone in sydney got a spare factory ECU they wouldn't mind lending me for about 5 minutes?

I'm stuffed for today, can't be bothered testing more..

Edited by govich
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/188074-r33-wont-fire/#findComment-3394677
Share on other sites

What happens if you give it some throttle while cranking, then keep some throttle after it starts?

Generally, if you keep cranking and it won't start, you will flood the engine. In that case, you need to give it FULL THROTTLE while cranking, and maintain some throttle once it fires.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/188074-r33-wont-fire/#findComment-3395235
Share on other sites

What happens if you give it some throttle while cranking, then keep some throttle after it starts?

Generally, if you keep cranking and it won't start, you will flood the engine. In that case, you need to give it FULL THROTTLE while cranking, and maintain some throttle once it fires.

Playing with the throttle does nothing while cranking and nothing while it's turning over at 200rpm.

I think aphid might be onto something. The coolant temp sensor gets no 5V signal when the key is turned to ignition on (specified by the engine manual). I think there might be more wiring shenanigans at play, might expose a bit of this wire at the ecu and see if it's sending out a signal. At this point i think either some of the ecu is stuffed or there's some wiring that's been knocked out somehow (since even the consult plug gets no power).

Thanks guys

Edited by govich
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/188074-r33-wont-fire/#findComment-3395696
Share on other sites

OK, so i've now done the following:

- Tested the fuel pump and fuel system, pumping fine to just outside the rail.

- Pulled a coil off and put a spark plug in it against the block, pulled out the crank angle sensor and turned it with ignition on, can hear injectors ticking and there's spark.

(why the hell isn't it starting just from the above two?)

- Water temp sensor gets power, reading of ~3V seems good at about 20 degrees (from the engine manual) <- is there a better way to test the operation of this?

- .. a whole bunch of continuity tests on ecu pins, all fuses are fine, afm voltage is OK (1V) when cranking.

I'm out of ideas. Any tips greatly appreciated.

Edited by govich
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/188074-r33-wont-fire/#findComment-3404881
Share on other sites

- Tested the fuel pump and fuel system, pumping fine to just outside the rail.

- Pulled a coil off and put a spark plug in it against the block, pulled out the crank angle sensor and turned it with ignition on, can hear injectors ticking and there's spark.

(why the hell isn't it starting just from the above two?)

Problem solved. Knew from the above two that something was sus.

Anyone in this position, have a look at your security system, they can play all sorts of shenanigans with the car. Deactivated it and the car was a black smoke machine for about 20 seconds, held it on the throttle though and it's purring now.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/188074-r33-wont-fire/#findComment-3404977
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It is a kunfine Android screen . Does anyone know the wirering diagram of the fuga ??
    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
×
×
  • Create New...