Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys

The guy I sold my old 33 to a couple of years ago (a relative, hence this post and how I still get to see the car :P ) is having some trouble with it. It's a 93 (so series 1 obviously) GTS25t.

He was giving it some herbs during the week, when it suddenly stopped making boost (guage wouldn't go over zero) and blew truckloads of smoke. He immediately pulled over and ended up having it towed to my brother's place for some work. The turbo has been checked out and the workshop said that it was definitely stuffed courtesy of a blown oil seal - a bit of a bugger, but hey it's a nice simple fix, swap it out and go.

Now that the new turbo, fittings, manifold and pipework has arrived - he decided to go for something a bit more modern, lol - the old manifold has come away from the head to reveal that the ports for cyls 1 & 2 are absolutely coated in oil. The other 4 are fine. It looks like there may have been more than one thing go wrong.

So I'm just trying to bounce some ideas around... what could the problem be? Our first thoughts were head gasket (or the head itself), or possibly (but unlikely) rings, given that the affected cylinders are right next to each other. I'm struggling to think of any other possibilities as most of the ones I came up with would have spread the oil through all of the cylinders, not just two of them. The issue with that is that a compression test isn't going to be easy, as the oil has been dropped, and what's left in the galleries will probably spray everywhere as most of the exhaust side of the engine is missing; so we'd like some options before we start tearing the head off :P

Also, is it possible that the head gasket nuked itself and a bit of it (part of one of the metal rings perhaps) went through the turbo and killed the seal? Feasible?

FYI the engine has a lot of kays on it (I haven't checked what it has now, but 2 years ago I sold it with 204,000km...), to my knowledge has never been opened, and for a fair bit of its later life while it was in my hands, it was making around 300rwkw. I won't be the least bit surprised if it's started throwing in the towel.

Thanks in advance for any suggestions :D

Cheers

Marc

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/188085-blown-head-gasket/
Share on other sites

well the problem is the most likely problem is rings/ringlands not the head gasket...the gasket is pretty reilable in these cars...

I'm not too familiar....can you do a leak down test without having to crank the engine?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Surely somebody has one in VIC. Have you asked at any shops?  Is this the yearly inspection or did you get a canary?
    • This is where I share pain with you, @Duncan. The move to change so many cooling system pieces to plastic is a killer! Plastic end tanks and a few plastic hose flanges on my car's fail after so little time.  Curious about the need for a bigger rad, is that just for long sessions in the summer or because the car generally needs more cooling?
    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
    • OK, so regardless of whether you did Step 1 - Spill Step 2 - Trans pan removal Step 3 - TCM removal we are on to the clean and refill. First, have a good look at the oil pan. While you might see dirty oil and some carbony build up (I did), what you don't want to see is any metal particles on the magnets, or sparkles in the oil (thankfully not). Give it all a good clean, particularly the magnets, and put the new gasket on if you have one (or, just cross your fingers) Replacement of the Valve body (if you removed it) is the "reverse of assembly". Thread the electrical socket back up through the trans case, hold the valve body up and put in the bolts you removed, with the correct lengths in the correct locations Torque for the bolts in 8Nm only so I hope you have that torque wrench handy (it feels really loose). Plug the output speed sensor back in and clip the wiring into the 2 clips, replace the spring clip on the TCM socket and plug it back into the car loom. For the pan, the workshop manual states the following order: Again, the torque is 8Nm only.
×
×
  • Create New...