Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all.

I'm considering turboing VH45 and putting it in my falcon ute. Not looking at getting HUGE horsepower. More after something that is going to make good smooth reliable power and isn't going to chew the amount of fuel that the 5.8 ford cleveland it will be replacing does. I would be real happy If I could get the same or a bit more power out of it than the old ford which is making around the 360 rwkw. Are these as strong as the 1UV. What kind of boost can they handle and what kw figures can they make. What should I look out for when buying one and what are (If any) their problems.

Cheers

Craig.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/188215-turboing-a-vh45de/
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...

use a 1UZ, its a proven thing

edit - i am not up to date with the nissan V8 tuning scene, they make work very well, point was heaps of people have turboed the 1uz, whereas the nissan seems to be more uncharted waters, not saying its a bad motor or anything

Edited by VB-
use a 1UZ, its a proven thing

edit - i am not up to date with the nissan V8 tuning scene, they make work very well, point was heaps of people have turboed the 1uz, whereas the nissan seems to be more uncharted waters, not saying its a bad motor or anything

yeah agreed, the VH45 has a few issues, i have had a few infinitys through that have shat themselves all with chain guide issues which have ended in catastrophic engine failure... if you belive it is only isolated feel free to read this forum (infinity forum) which outlines the issue in great detail.

once you determine which year you engine is and whether or not is has had the guides done then yes they are a killer engine, if not the are pretty much a time bomb.

http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=25201

Does it have to be a V8 ? , I'm hardly a Ford person but an XR6T engine may go in ok and at least spares are available .

Sadly for Ford I think the current turbo six makes slightly more torque than their V8 though possibly not off idle .

A factory turbo engine has most of the updates to make it live in a forced environment and the manifolds and dryer are obviously all there . Specific things like injectors cams pistons and maybe rods are usually more suitable than NA stuff .

Getting the paperwork to run a local spec engine should be easy too .

Cheers A .

OK my 2 cents.....why not an LS1 or 2. Light, compact and arguably more aftermarket parts than any other engine.

My brother runs an APS twin turbo kit on his LS2. Cost $14K for the kit including fitting plus twin 3 inch exhaust and makes just over 500rwhp at under 8 psi of boost on stock motor. And you have a meaty 6500 rpm power band. Fuel economy, we averaged 8.5 litres per 100 klms on the trip back from Sydney (where the kit was fited) to Perth. Yes thats better than stock fuel economy at highway speeds.

Dyno for abovementioned LS2 comparing before (red dyno) and after turbos were fitted (black dyno). Sorry about the other hand scrawl dyno plot we were comparing another engine on this plot.

twinturboLS2.jpg

Edited by juggernaut1
Yes thats better than stock fuel economy at highway speeds.

beter economy on a long drive, thats a common known fact that your economy goes down on long journeys at highway speeds. the stock rating would be an average of city and some highway driving.

beter economy on a long drive, thats a common known fact that your economy goes down on long journeys at highway speeds. the stock rating would be an average of city and some highway driving.

By 'stock fuel economy' I mean actual acheived fuel economy on the way from Perth to Sydney - achieved approx 10.5 litres per 100 klm on the way over and 8.5 litres per 100 klm on the way back.......not comparing highway to city driving. Therefore, we are more or less comparing apples to apples.....unless Perth is downhill from Sydney. :P

One of the reasons I see for the improved fuel economy is due to the huge torque of the engine with the turbs ....even at low revs.....which doesn't require downshifting on the tall 6th gear. Whereas before the turbs, it was necessary to downshift to 5th or sometimes 4th for brisk overtaking. If you look at the dyno, the torque at 110 klm's has nearly doubled. In 6th gear 110 klm's equates to around 1600 rpm.

Edited by juggernaut1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
×
×
  • Create New...