Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys i recenetly done an auto to manual conversion in an r33 with a box that had done 51000kms(rb25det), problem is when shifting from 3rd to fourth in high rev range, theres a slight crunch, and no its not my driving hahaha. Are my synchros gone?and should i take it easy cause its doing that?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/188236-small-crunch-from-3rd-to-4th/
Share on other sites

yeah 3rd to 4th seems weakest synchro in the RB25 (well it appears that way from the last 2 RB25 boxes I've had)

yes you should take it easy, shift slower so your actually rev matching or even though it can be a pain clutch IN shift to neutral clutch OUT then clutch IN again and select 4th this was all I could do on my old box as the synchro was totally rooted, don't keep grinding or forcing it in you'll just wear your box out quicker. If the other gears are good and no bad bearing noises I'd just put up with it, the synchro's themselves aren't expensive it's the labour to pull the box off car/pull box apart etc that costs the most

cheers mate, whats the life expectancy of a fully rebuilt manual transmission?ikm just thinking of doing this once my box starts to get old, it works out cheaper in the end, and at least that way you know youve got a new box recon. and not taking the risk buying another 2nd hand one that may be rooted!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Drain it. I got official Matic D but you can get whatever is listed as Matic D compatible.
    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
    • Nice car! I’m glad folks in the US have gotten past the FnF and are buying real cool cars like the 260RS I was with a bunch of mates in Portland about a year ago and spotted a green Stagea (just a regular 2.5T AWD) parked about 2 blocks away and they were like “a what?” So I made a bet with them for a round of beers and said “ok one of you run down there and tell me if the steering wheel is on the correct side” 5 mins later the American comes trudging back up the hill and goes “he’s right guys. Ok what beer do you want?”
    • Should replace OR drop the tank, give it's good clean. Might be worth replacing that entire fuel level/pump/cradle thing with this: https://frenchysperformancegarage.com/products/fpg-s13-180sx-r32gtst-single-pump-hanger-kit-billet-hat-6-v3-fpg-089?gQT=2  
    • Thank you so much for the help
×
×
  • Create New...