Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

my bro in law runs red stuff up front and green stuff at the back on his pug 205 gti track car.... never been in a car that can pull up harder.

only problem is they dont really work at low temps, so dont expect them to clamp like all fk a couple blocks from home, can be a bit scary when they are cold

i wouldnt get bendix

im not 100% sure if ill get red stuff it all depends on money QFM are a good price and better than bendix

I've ran bendix ultimates. They were damn good street pads dusty as all buggery slightly hard when cold but not really noticeable. I was luckly they only squeeled only 'just' before coming to a stop.

A mate at work tracks his Pug 205. He has moved from the green stuff to the red stuff.

He was saying the green's are crap at the track on the heavier skylines but damn good on the street but expensive for a street pad.

Red's feel like your pressing on a brake pedal with no booster until they warm up but on the track he said they are unbelievable. :banana:

Another to consider is the Lucas TRW pads. $50-$70 a pair.

http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.p...howtopic=295992

They will be my next pads. :D

A mate at work tracks his Pug 205. He has moved from the green stuff to the red stuff.

He was saying the green's are crap at the track on the heavier skylines but damn good on the street but expensive for a street pad.

Red's feel like your pressing on a brake pedal with no booster until they warm up but on the track he said they are unbelievable. :banana:

yeah my bro in law was finding the rear end would lock up too easy with reds on the rear of his 205... was funny, would just swap ends n spin under hard braking at speed :D

thanks pete, i am leaning toword the greenstuff for the fronts, and bendix ultimates for the rear, does mixing matter?

changing your brake bias can be a problem so unless you know your compounds pretty well I wouldn't like to experiment....you never want your back brakes to take over on a bend.

steve, i was thinkin QFM all round at one stage.

I was looking at the QFM A1RM's but they are a bit too dusty for my liking (bendix Ultimates are apparently worse though) and they don't make them for a Brembo caliper. I'm in the same boat with EBC Greenstuff.....not made for Brembo caliper, hence why the Redstuff which is actually a Kevlar pad with Ceramic particles. Having said that, if you want QFM's for Brembos, you can send your backing plates interstate and be without your car for awhile, they can rebond them for you with any compound that you like.

my bro in law runs red stuff up front and green stuff at the back on his pug 205 gti track car.... never been in a car that can pull up harder.

only problem is they dont really work at low temps, so dont expect them to clamp like all fk a couple blocks from home, can be a bit scary when they are cold

Most good pads wont be at their best from home to the local deli but the redstuff doesn't need to glow before they bite......just warm.

Your bro in law has affected the brake bias of his car, not recommended. His rears may bite too hard in the cold.....see below for front/rear combinations: EDIT: They would obviously be fine when hot because the fronts would then bite harder.

On Front.............OK to fit or have on rear

Original........................Ultimax only

Ultimax........................Ultimax or original

Greenstuff....................Greenstuff, Ultimax or Redstuff or original

Redstuff.......................Redstuff or Original

Yellowstuff....................Yellowstuff,Green,Red,Ultimax or original

Most good pads wont be at their best from home to the local deli but the redstuff doesn't need to glow before they bite......just warm.

Your bro in law has affected the brake bias of his car, not recommended. His rears may bite too hard in the cold.....see below for front/rear combinations:

yeah, this happened after a brake upgrade to some slotted cross drilled items. It now has adjustable bias cos that was cheaper than new rotors etc

my car needs a service bad, checked engine oil the other day and was black as. Need to get to the hoist soon.

Same here. I reckon I'm close to the 5,000km service interval. Better get it done before my interstate trip. :laugh:

Hey guys, could anyone lend me their reo bar! Im kinda getting desperate as i plan to regency it tomorrow morning! I dont have much monies to offer but im sure we can figure

something out. (Oh it should only be for a day also since im heading to regency tomorrow morning.)

Regards

-Min

Well a bit of catching up to do for me.

- f**k, i missed wipeout :down:

- scott, fluoro for parklife? fluoro is business as usual for me :)

and +11ty for Ric from Auto Perfection, had my new alarm fitted today, excellent service and awesome product. Highly recommended.

I've driven with and without and didn't like the short shifter. Unsure if it was the box but I found I crunched slightly on hard shifts.

I then grabbed a nismo gearknob with the std rb20 shifter/box. The height of the shifter was just nice.

Then in went the rb25det gearbox which resulted in a taller shifter.

Miss my rb20det gearbox; the rb20det gearbox's feel a hell of a lot nicer to shift for some reason. Every 25t box I've felt in comparison feels big and clunky.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I might just check it out.. A Q among all those skylines.. lol
    • Time will tell, they're doing all the admin stuff at the moment. I've submitted all the required details, photos, etc.   I was under the impression that DC coupling is the best approach, i.e.: Solar Array -> Battery Invertor -> Battery  Where as AC Coupling is simpler, however less efficient, i.e.: Solar Array -> Solar Invertor -> Battery Invertor -> Battery
    • The price is really great for that kind of capacity. I thought similar setups cost way more. How's your efficiency been with the DC-coupling? I've heard sometimes there can be a bit of a performance loss.
    • Long time no random post about shit. So I went down this deep deep rabbit hole of battery storage for the home, ended up locking in a 41.9kWh Fox ESS EQ4800 with 9 units stacked. Battery uses Lithium Iron Phosphate, similar to what you find in those deep cycle boat/caravan batteries. And yes, why did I go with a cheapie brand and not like Synergy? simply because I don't plan to stay at this house for more than another 3~5 years.  The entire install, DC coupling (removal of existing invertor, connecting the current 6.6kW array direct to the battery invertor), new 8kW invertor is $6K all up (after all the rebates etc.). Going with this lot: https://www.aussiesolarbatteries.com.au/ It did seem a bit too good to be true, however seems like the Whirlpool community has vetted it and when it comes to this kind of stuff, they seem to be all over it: https://forums.whirlpool.net.au/thread/9pxj8482?p=38   I've requested for the battery to be installed outside, next to my meter board and not inside - rather have it combust and ignite outside lol.    
    • In Vic it would be a defect regardless of whether or not you cut a hole in the sheetmetal for the return pipe. The rules in Vic are shitful, and are generally interpreted as you can "make 2 mods to the intake system". Putting an FFP and an FMI onto it will almost certainly be seen as some huge number of intake mods. You really need to speak to an engineer before doing this stuff in VIC.
×
×
  • Create New...