Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ouch.....lucky you didnt knock yourself out mate

With the number of times I have had these diffs out of cars my biggest fear was that it would drop it on my head and now it has happened. Luckily I wasn't using the pit so it only fell 30cm before hitting me not 1m like if I was in the pit. This is the first time that I had someone "lending a hand" and i think they pulled it off the sway bar which is why it dropped. so I think for now on I'll stick with doing it by my self

Edited by D_Stirls
dont need to replace the plugs unless the old ones are shagged. if still in good nick just clean the magnet and plug.

thanks to damo and chad about the jobi congrats. means alot! im scared as hell, start tomorrow working for a company called maison design as an all rounder.... called up friday, interview saturday, trial monday!! haha awesome!

http://maisondesign.com.au/

lol @ dohmar's lack of dash! looks hectic!

chad! we want pics!! ;) havin fun getting intimate with your cluster?

here ya go buddy, took just under 30 minutes :(

dashlights.jpg

^^^ if they are on pillar and restricting vision they are a no go. but as far as i know guages are allowed anywhere aslong as they dont restrict any vision out the car.. hence why chad would have passed through regency

hmm Nissan got smart when they made my car :(

so i have a "fibre creations" nismo front bar that has no holes. I can get it paitned cheap, but i need to get it fitted, holes drilled and work done, then it gets painted and then i can fit it after painting. Do you think places like all type crash would bother with a small job like that? Any recommendations?

hmm Nissan got smart when they made my car :(

so i have a "fibre creations" nismo front bar that has no holes. I can get it paitned cheap, but i need to get it fitted, holes drilled and work done, then it gets painted and then i can fit it after painting. Do you think places like all type crash would bother with a small job like that? Any recommendations?

im pretty sure they would, money is money, probably do a cashy for ya

UNfkingBELIEVEABLE

SO I killed the cressida right, drove over 10kays with the needle on H, had the rattle of death going the whole time and also managed to cook the oil in it.

I topped up the oil/coolant today, turned the key and after a few lazy chugs, she fires up and settles to a reasonably good idle, given the previous abuse. I also drove it a further few kays with not a single problem (it hesitated slightly when moving off from a standstill on a steep hill).

I just can't fathom how it could take so much abuse and still run and drive like nothing happened. Fking 7M is damn near unbrakeable :(

When I first bought the R32 going on 8years ago the coolant temp sensor was dicky.. First summer engine temp went from 1/4 to half. I was wondering why the car would get really sluggy and on occasions stall and then not start until it would cool. Water would constantly blow out of the overflow.

Summer past; replaced the coolant temp sensor to realise it was constantly driving around on H. Maxed out the gauge. :S

It went on to clock another 100,000km's. ;)

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
×
×
  • Create New...