Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

that mani wont crack ryan... its already been all gusseted etc, good welds, all been ported and cleaned up and it's not a cheap shitty china mani..... it's the good stuff.

But you already knew that. :down:

Should see my new mani.... :D:D:D:D yum yum..... and the screamer out the bonnet.

i personally agree with Craig i liked the drifteks but its not about what i like :down:

what did you clean your rotors with and does it cost much because i should maybe clean mine so i can paint the hats

you got much paint left :D

I just used wax and grease remover, or thinners will do, there was so much oil on the disks, when i was bedding in my pads it looked like my car was on fire :D I still have to paint and fit my rear rotors, but i should have heaps of paint left for you to use :down:

I'd go the 33 personally, RB25's are alot better than the 20's IMO, then again you could go a 32 and chuck in a 25 motor

The 33's are damn close to the price of a 32 these days..

33ftw.. better motor better gearbox to start off with. Much better modding platform that won't hurt your wallet as much.

I've also heard that I should go for a non-Turbo first, especially since I'm driving an auto atm. Seems like a wise move IMO.

The 15k includes stamp duty, rego and insurance for a year (so about 12 or 13k for the car itself).

Edited by normangerman

12k ono for my 32 with an auto

or its going into smooth garage on tuesday to get a manual converstion with HD clutch and ill let it go for 13k-13.5kono

if you keen check my forsale thread!

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...y2-t226674.html

Edited by Import S13
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I might just check it out.. A Q among all those skylines.. lol
    • Time will tell, they're doing all the admin stuff at the moment. I've submitted all the required details, photos, etc.   I was under the impression that DC coupling is the best approach, i.e.: Solar Array -> Battery Invertor -> Battery  Where as AC Coupling is simpler, however less efficient, i.e.: Solar Array -> Solar Invertor -> Battery Invertor -> Battery
    • The price is really great for that kind of capacity. I thought similar setups cost way more. How's your efficiency been with the DC-coupling? I've heard sometimes there can be a bit of a performance loss.
    • Long time no random post about shit. So I went down this deep deep rabbit hole of battery storage for the home, ended up locking in a 41.9kWh Fox ESS EQ4800 with 9 units stacked. Battery uses Lithium Iron Phosphate, similar to what you find in those deep cycle boat/caravan batteries. And yes, why did I go with a cheapie brand and not like Synergy? simply because I don't plan to stay at this house for more than another 3~5 years.  The entire install, DC coupling (removal of existing invertor, connecting the current 6.6kW array direct to the battery invertor), new 8kW invertor is $6K all up (after all the rebates etc.). Going with this lot: https://www.aussiesolarbatteries.com.au/ It did seem a bit too good to be true, however seems like the Whirlpool community has vetted it and when it comes to this kind of stuff, they seem to be all over it: https://forums.whirlpool.net.au/thread/9pxj8482?p=38   I've requested for the battery to be installed outside, next to my meter board and not inside - rather have it combust and ignite outside lol.    
    • In Vic it would be a defect regardless of whether or not you cut a hole in the sheetmetal for the return pipe. The rules in Vic are shitful, and are generally interpreted as you can "make 2 mods to the intake system". Putting an FFP and an FMI onto it will almost certainly be seen as some huge number of intake mods. You really need to speak to an engineer before doing this stuff in VIC.
×
×
  • Create New...