Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've also heard that I should go for a non-Turbo first, especially since I'm driving an auto atm. Seems like a wise move IMO.

The 15k includes stamp duty, rego and insurance for a year (so about 12 or 13k for the car itself).

R34 non-turbos go for about $13k these days.

:devil: Just got to have a look at the girlfriends car, she's been complaining the last few days about overheating problems, turns out it's a stuffed head gasket. Trying to explain to her that you need to spend money on keeping a car going is like talking to a brick wall

Whos that Rad32 bloke? Had an awesome weekend in Blanchetown.

Ryan, me and Adrian were talking alot about RB30 bottom ends. What sort of difference would it make if i slapped one on my 25?

And Norman, if you think you'll be ok in a turbo, go for it. I went from an N/A auto S13 to my car, it all comes down to self control and, "easing into it".

all depends if its an early non turbo nonvvti rb25 head which came out in the late R32's or a later Turbo vvti rb25 head guys, im currently thinking about doing this for my R31. An oil gallery in the block has to be elongated to meet up with the vvti oil gallery in the head i believe, also a hole position is necessary to drill and tap a hole in the block for the idler pulley to incorporate the larger twin cam timing belt also. There is plenty of write ups about this on SAU and im sure Cubes has alot more information about it than i do...He'd be the one id ask if i needed information.

also, may take into consideration that most rb30's even tho they may be fine, would be worth either a standard spec rebuild with new rings etc..as a minimum requirement or either go all out and get a set of forgies etc....alot of work to just have a tired old motor wacked in.

Edited by Ryanrb25

You can run with the two lower tensioner locations. Just means a different cam belt.

Block off the oil galley for the vct in the rb25 head (not the block) and then drill/tap a feed for the vct or if you are running larger cams and don't wish to utilise the vct you drill the head to provide oil to the front cam bearing. Unsure exactly stockymcstock with his twincharged gt4088r rb30det worked out how to do it. :rofl:

If you run with the r32 rb25 head then its just bolts on and off you go. Its easy to lower the engine mounts ~13mm and should cost under $100. Boostworxs know what has to be done in this instance.

Once you go the 30 there's no going back. :D

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
    • For race cars, this is one part where I find having the roll cage bar having gone through a hole in the floor better than the build it up on a ledge inside... The Merc I help on, the main hoop ends are marked on the car, and the jack is marked... Jack goes under a few inches and lifts one whole side of the car up... Removes that fight for long slim jacks for race car duties!   My biggest issue for the daily drivers I work on, is my jacks don't go high enough. The jacks start out on a few blocks, jack it up, then start a second jack under it on more blocks, and then I can get an axle stand under it. My axle stands are presently in use, and are nearly fully extended. The car is sitting with barely more than a cm of clearance to get the wheel off the studs! Sarah's Kluger is the same, as it has an ungodly amount of droop available in the suspension and a distinct lack of good jacking points!
    • Happy? Yep, my to do list is getting shorter and shorter. Either this light approaching is the end of the tunnel, or I'm about to be hit by a train... Ha ha ha   Also, Duncan isn't that far out of town that you need to make a multi day drive out of it. 😛
    • Sorry I meant that we are building the EH for a client.
    • LOL, when one "money pit" is never enough Noice, and excellent work mate
×
×
  • Create New...