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Cubes

By Cubes,
in South Australia

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Chris#3 Experienced

Chris#3

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I've also heard that I should go for a non-Turbo first, especially since I'm driving an auto atm. Seems like a wise move IMO.

The 15k includes stamp duty, rego and insurance for a year (so about 12 or 13k for the car itself).

R34 non-turbos go for about $13k these days.

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Ryanrb25
Ryanrb25

i went for a hills run last night in the 31 with the roads very slippery.....was much fun. Had to bed in the bottom end bearings so yea..took it for a strap.

DSTROY
DSTROY

Hey Ryan, do you know how to fit a set of drop spindles to the front of a hilux???

Madaz
Madaz

Dam straight Damo would rather do SAU them heroin gts4 are 4.1 because they share the same parts from the gtr i think r32 gtst is 4.3 because of the lack of torque from the rb20

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heslo Grand Master

heslo

Posted
Posted
:devil: Just got to have a look at the girlfriends car, she's been complaining the last few days about overheating problems, turns out it's a stuffed head gasket. Trying to explain to her that you need to spend money on keeping a car going is like talking to a brick wall
Damo_R34 Grand Master

Damo_R34

Posted
Posted

Whos that Rad32 bloke? Had an awesome weekend in Blanchetown.

Ryan, me and Adrian were talking alot about RB30 bottom ends. What sort of difference would it make if i slapped one on my 25?

And Norman, if you think you'll be ok in a turbo, go for it. I went from an N/A auto S13 to my car, it all comes down to self control and, "easing into it".

Ryanrb25 Grand Master

Ryanrb25

Posted
Posted (edited)

all depends if its an early non turbo nonvvti rb25 head which came out in the late R32's or a later Turbo vvti rb25 head guys, im currently thinking about doing this for my R31. An oil gallery in the block has to be elongated to meet up with the vvti oil gallery in the head i believe, also a hole position is necessary to drill and tap a hole in the block for the idler pulley to incorporate the larger twin cam timing belt also. There is plenty of write ups about this on SAU and im sure Cubes has alot more information about it than i do...He'd be the one id ask if i needed information.

also, may take into consideration that most rb30's even tho they may be fine, would be worth either a standard spec rebuild with new rings etc..as a minimum requirement or either go all out and get a set of forgies etc....alot of work to just have a tired old motor wacked in.

Edited by Ryanrb25
Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
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Posted

You can run with the two lower tensioner locations. Just means a different cam belt.

Block off the oil galley for the vct in the rb25 head (not the block) and then drill/tap a feed for the vct or if you are running larger cams and don't wish to utilise the vct you drill the head to provide oil to the front cam bearing. Unsure exactly stockymcstock with his twincharged gt4088r rb30det worked out how to do it. :rofl:

If you run with the r32 rb25 head then its just bolts on and off you go. Its easy to lower the engine mounts ~13mm and should cost under $100. Boostworxs know what has to be done in this instance.

Once you go the 30 there's no going back. :D

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