Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've also heard that I should go for a non-Turbo first, especially since I'm driving an auto atm. Seems like a wise move IMO.

The 15k includes stamp duty, rego and insurance for a year (so about 12 or 13k for the car itself).

R34 non-turbos go for about $13k these days.

:devil: Just got to have a look at the girlfriends car, she's been complaining the last few days about overheating problems, turns out it's a stuffed head gasket. Trying to explain to her that you need to spend money on keeping a car going is like talking to a brick wall

Whos that Rad32 bloke? Had an awesome weekend in Blanchetown.

Ryan, me and Adrian were talking alot about RB30 bottom ends. What sort of difference would it make if i slapped one on my 25?

And Norman, if you think you'll be ok in a turbo, go for it. I went from an N/A auto S13 to my car, it all comes down to self control and, "easing into it".

all depends if its an early non turbo nonvvti rb25 head which came out in the late R32's or a later Turbo vvti rb25 head guys, im currently thinking about doing this for my R31. An oil gallery in the block has to be elongated to meet up with the vvti oil gallery in the head i believe, also a hole position is necessary to drill and tap a hole in the block for the idler pulley to incorporate the larger twin cam timing belt also. There is plenty of write ups about this on SAU and im sure Cubes has alot more information about it than i do...He'd be the one id ask if i needed information.

also, may take into consideration that most rb30's even tho they may be fine, would be worth either a standard spec rebuild with new rings etc..as a minimum requirement or either go all out and get a set of forgies etc....alot of work to just have a tired old motor wacked in.

Edited by Ryanrb25

You can run with the two lower tensioner locations. Just means a different cam belt.

Block off the oil galley for the vct in the rb25 head (not the block) and then drill/tap a feed for the vct or if you are running larger cams and don't wish to utilise the vct you drill the head to provide oil to the front cam bearing. Unsure exactly stockymcstock with his twincharged gt4088r rb30det worked out how to do it. :rofl:

If you run with the r32 rb25 head then its just bolts on and off you go. Its easy to lower the engine mounts ~13mm and should cost under $100. Boostworxs know what has to be done in this instance.

Once you go the 30 there's no going back. :D

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
×
×
  • Create New...