Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just a quick question, I spose many of you guys feel the same, but I'm selling my AWD Auto Subaru Liberty and want to get a Skyline. Dads not letting me get a turbo and I have persisted but only got yelled at some more.

His excuse is 'you never know when the turbo will kick in and throw you sideways'. Thats about it. 'It would be irresponsible of me to let you get a turbo', 'Not at 17 years old' and all that stuff.

Is there any hard facts about this that can be to my advantage? Stock boost does crap all? You can't feel it? etc etc. He'd let me get a non turbo R33 (140kw) but not a turbo R32 (158kw). 'The disk brakes on the R32 explode and they're generally the worst one of them, the R33 is the pick of the bunch'.

Any common problems the non turbo has that the turbo doesn't? This is concerning both R32 and R33 models.

And for anyone saying how I'm going to be irresponsible and all this stuff, I've had this drilled into by my Dad more then enough. When I go driving with my mates I tell them not to speed and don't care if they get ahead of me. They do stupid stuff and I know who's car not to get into. Even complaining to my sister she reckons I'm the most responsible 17 year old she knows. Ask Kahli on here for some backup, she knows how I drive.

Thanks for any replies, but this is something I really want (I've already bought a car that was 'alright I guess' but not what I want. I don't wanna do the same again). Plus if I get a non turbo, my mates have already got a nick name lined up for me :rofl:

LOL well i came from a vs auto to a stock standard 32 gts-t, yes there is a power dif and i would def reconmend getting manual as i find it alot safer. In the end u aint gunna get sideweays unless u put ur foot down no matter what car u have!

hows is comming on at a certain rev range every single time 'you never know' going sideways is simple DONT clutch kick

common problem with non turbo is lack of power when you need it

Just a quick question, I spose many of you guys feel the same, but I'm selling my AWD Auto Subaru Liberty and want to get a Skyline. Dads not letting me get a turbo and I have persisted but only got yelled at some more.

His excuse is 'you never know when the turbo will kick in and throw you sideways'. Thats about it. 'It would be irresponsible of me to let you get a turbo', 'Not at 17 years old' and all that stuff.

Is there any hard facts about this that can be to my advantage? Stock boost does crap all? You can't feel it? etc etc. He'd let me get a non turbo R33 (140kw) but not a turbo R32 (158kw). 'The disk brakes on the R32 explode and they're generally the worst one of them, the R33 is the pick of the bunch'.

Any common problems the non turbo has that the turbo doesn't? This is concerning both R32 and R33 models.

And for anyone saying how I'm going to be irresponsible and all this stuff, I've had this drilled into by my Dad more then enough. When I go driving with my mates I tell them not to speed and don't care if they get ahead of me. They do stupid stuff and I know who's car not to get into. Even complaining to my sister she reckons I'm the most responsible 17 year old she knows. Ask Kahli on here for some backup, she knows how I drive.

Thanks for any replies, but this is something I really want (I've already bought a car that was 'alright I guess' but not what I want. I don't wanna do the same again). Plus if I get a non turbo, my mates have already got a nick name lined up for me :(

DONT listen to him thats the expensive way around

find a r32 with a rb25de and when ur older slap a 30 bottom and run 250+ rwkw :D lol

lol +1

So the post whores are back in town :rofl: was very quite without you guys :(

ah, so SAU isnt :D'ed from blanchetown thats good to hear :P

Yes, a couple of noticeable absences, CHAD AND JENKIES! Will probably be doing it again soon tho, was awesome fun!

and this talk about RB30 bottom end gets very expensive very quick if you dont do it right the first time which is moderately expensive

oh cool ill drop that water pump off after work sometime this week you name a day i finish most days @ 7pm but tues will finish @ 5:30

I appreciate that steve but this week is really bad. We've had a close friend suicide and I honestly don't know what my movements are going to be this week... ill msg you and work out a time later

-D

and this talk about RB30 bottom end gets very expensive very quick if you dont do it right the first time which is moderately expensive

4wd yeah its a pain in the arse as there is the plenum issue if you run an rb25det. Typically for a 4wd you can budget an additional 1k over a std rb26dett rebuild. If its the rb25det then you need low mount plenum.

RWD - the additional cost is very minimal and well worth the huge amount of mid range compared to the 25. No reason it should cost more than an additional 300-400 max.

Back when I did mine it worked out cheaper to do a std rb30 freshen up with an rb25 head than it was to grab a rb25det and drop that in.

Just a quick question, I spose many of you guys feel the same, but I'm selling my AWD Auto Subaru Liberty and want to get a Skyline. Dads not letting me get a turbo and I have persisted but only got yelled at some more.

His excuse is 'you never know when the turbo will kick in and throw you sideways'. Thats about it. 'It would be irresponsible of me to let you get a turbo', 'Not at 17 years old' and all that stuff.

ur lucky to get a non turbo r 33!

i was only allowed a front wheel drive!!!

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just to be clear, there were no lights or codes when the hiccups were occurring. Also nothing noticeable in the cars' braking. It brakes fine and the dash is clear. I only made the connection when it did throw a code and suddenly, despite the lights, it felt great again. 
    • Yeah they are sliders and this was in my head before I worked out it was the speed sensor.
    • Ok so we have a smoking gun.  A few weeks ago I had to replace a speed sensor that I'd fit incorrectly. I replaced the sensor and everything was fine with no lights or codes thrown any longer.  When I was doing some more bedding in yesterday I got ABS and traction control lights again and, considering when this happens those things are disabled, the pedal went back to normal with smooth braking and no hiccups.  The codes thrown are for the same speed sensor that I replaced. When I looked at the sensor I took out it looks like the tip of the sensor is damaged. So whatever happened to it, perhaps it has damaged the magnetic ring on the bearing (that I only replaced the other week). I'll get my boroscope in the hole where the sensor goes and see if there is any damage in there. Hopefully just the tip of the sensor is in there and the bearing is fine. 🤞🏻  It's worth noting also that the pedal hiccup happens more often and for longer periods now and totally goes away when the codes are thrown again which happens usually after 5 or so minutes of driving. Love all your help here as usual guys, thanks!
    • Could you put a real seat and harness in instead of what looks like leaving your passenger balancing on a milk crate
×
×
  • Create New...