Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Grab some carby clean. They almost always gum up and cause idling issues.

Does the valve AAC valve need removal for cleaning?

If its idling too high there's another valve that may be the cause. IAC valve. The spring can dislodge and cause a constant 1000-1500rpm high idle.

Can the spring be relocated or would I need a newbie......also can a good hammering up the hills cause a dislodgement because its been like that ever since I went for a run with my mates Porsche & Maserati (gave it a bit of a hammering that day :blink: )

Yeah mine idles way too high. I'm guessing the AAC valve is the accessible the one near the fuel filter which can be cleaned whereas the IAC is probably the "cold air by-pass solenoid" which is against the sandwich plate under the centre throttle body which requires a plenum removal and which can't be cleaned (approx $220 new).

Also Cubes, have you got the full specs on your Tighe cams ie. IN & EX opening & closing times etc......I might look into them myself.

Can the spring be relocated or would I need a newbie......also can a good hammering up the hills cause a dislodgement because its been like that ever since I went for a run with my mates Porsche & Maserati (gave it a bit of a hammering that day tongue.gif )

I do have the cam sheet. All though your requirements will differ as you are blessed with solid followers.

Tighe did reduce the base circle some what however it doesn't appear to have created any problems.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&id=173055

Unsure if a hammering can cause it to dislodge.. Possibly.

Grab a can of start ya bastard and check for vac leaks bfore you go to the trouble of pulling everything off.

If the spring flicks off you can hook it back on and secure it a little better.

The std gasket will most likely break so grab some ACL gasket paper (the hard yellow paper) as its the correct thickness.

how hard is it to un wire gtr injectors with resistor pack??

If you have used a 280zx/R30 style resistor pack its as simple as heading down to the local auto store picking up a Navara 8pin? from memory plug and connecting each pin to each other (bridge) via wires. Then remove the resistor pack and plug in the bridged plug.

Hey guys just a quick question, i have a massive coolant leak at the back of my engine im pretty sure its just the heater hose leaking, any ideas how hard this is to replace??? or any idea's what the leak could be from its right at the back of the enging just infront of the fire wall.

hmmm I seem to be having absolute shit luck this year. Swapped the Chaser for a stupidly worked JZX81 track car and a Cressida Grande. Over valued the cressy to the tune of like 3k, turns out the thing is fair f**ked. Lost my job so had to swap the 81 for the 32 I'm in now, didn't get anywhere near enough coin on top. Lost about 6 grand or so in those 2 transactions. Now the Cressy has blown a head gasket (even after being torqued to the proper specs - good old 7M :() and the 32 is missing 1x rear quarter.

Roll on 2009 :)

Anyone know how to untighten the screws on the front of the fuel rail? Or what i can put on there so its easier to get them out? In heaps tight and i need them out to replace the o rings. Start fixing some small problems before i start driving it again in 2 months.

hmmm I seem to be having absolute shit luck this year. Swapped the Chaser for a stupidly worked JZX81 track car and a Cressida Grande. Over valued the cressy to the tune of like 3k, turns out the thing is fair f**ked. Lost my job so had to swap the 81 for the 32 I'm in now, didn't get anywhere near enough coin on top. Lost about 6 grand or so in those 2 transactions. Now the Cressy has blown a head gasket (even after being torqued to the proper specs - good old 7M :( ) and the 32 is missing 1x rear quarter.

Roll on 2009 :)

Aren't Cressy's prone to warping head gaskets? My mates Cressy which had a 5M in it blew 2 head gaskets within 6 months :D

Yeah man cressys eat gaskets like they're goin out of fashion :) Its the head torque that is the problem. Mine has been re-torqued and still fked the gasket out (to it's credit, it did complete about 10kays worth of driving on the H with the bottom end rattling away before the head gasket went :))

I reckon I'm just gonna get a Falcon and stop spendin money modding cars for a while. The Falcon seems to be best suited to daily with occaisional towing duties, so I can still get the busted arse 32 out to the track to thrash, Crazy Max styles with munted rear quarter. At least if I hit the tyres on the entry to 1 it doesn't matter because that quarter is already f**ked :laughing-smiley-014:

what suspension matty?

kyb shocks, aurora springs.....7kg front, 5kg rear, standard size (but slotted) aus del front and rear brakes too................nothing special in pads, and they didnt fade or cook

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
    • For race cars, this is one part where I find having the roll cage bar having gone through a hole in the floor better than the build it up on a ledge inside... The Merc I help on, the main hoop ends are marked on the car, and the jack is marked... Jack goes under a few inches and lifts one whole side of the car up... Removes that fight for long slim jacks for race car duties!   My biggest issue for the daily drivers I work on, is my jacks don't go high enough. The jacks start out on a few blocks, jack it up, then start a second jack under it on more blocks, and then I can get an axle stand under it. My axle stands are presently in use, and are nearly fully extended. The car is sitting with barely more than a cm of clearance to get the wheel off the studs! Sarah's Kluger is the same, as it has an ungodly amount of droop available in the suspension and a distinct lack of good jacking points!
    • Happy? Yep, my to do list is getting shorter and shorter. Either this light approaching is the end of the tunnel, or I'm about to be hit by a train... Ha ha ha   Also, Duncan isn't that far out of town that you need to make a multi day drive out of it. 😛
×
×
  • Create New...