Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yeah, yeah, yeah....tell everyone the truth!!!

Its that big juicy kiss you gave me at the airport :worship:

haha yeah......... ;) :laughing-smiley-014:

Any1 put in an oil catch can before?

what did you guys use to block the holes?

i read to use some threaded plugs?

any1? cheers

We have used "Door Stops" (thats what they look like) with hose clamps around them..you can get them at supercheap, clark rubber pretty sure :P

yeah pretty much might have to re-pin one of the sensors plugs but there a little cheaper for R33 gtr than R32 gtr :D

cool cheers man

JDM Yo! at least if the police cant read it tell them your car is the biggest tyre size

Morning Maz ;)

I am starting to feel better :w00t:

i didnt block any of the holes, i just ran the catch can in between the passenger side rocker cover and afm pipe

yeh i was reading up on the 5 million plumbing set ups for the catch can and sydneykid recons on the GTR its best to run the 2 hoses from the top to pipes on top of the rockets covers. best breathing setup apparently. but yeh your way would make things easier :P

Sinful - yeh im hoping 1 size fits all lol. ill have to try and measure the holes i need to plug ;)

^^ non sexual :S

i just bought a 040 bosch pump to put in my GTR!!! yay then just found out its not much of an upgrade :worship: i couldnt get the search engine on SAU to work so i was flying blind if you will.

yeh i was reading up on the 5 million plumbing set ups for the catch can and sydneykid recons on the GTR its best to run the 2 hoses from the top to pipes on top of the rockets covers. best breathing setup apparently. but yeh your way would make things easier ;)

Sinful - yeh im hoping 1 size fits all lol. ill have to try and measure the holes i need to plug ;)

^^ non sexual :S

i just bought a 040 bosch pump to put in my GTR!!! yay then just found out its not much of an upgrade :worship: i couldnt get the search engine on SAU to work so i was flying blind if you will.

The search button is working now...It's an alright upgrade (I havent upgrdaed mine yet) are you getting injectors to go with it? What power output are you going for? Do you know what teh GTR puts out now??

Mine with nothing done to it made 206kws at the rears at dyno day last year :P

link catch can

Another link

thanks jess :P

im pretty sure on its tune (about 10-11psi boost) ben said he rekons close to 210 maybe more, bens mechanic said it picks up faster than stock GTRs :worship:

nah i dont have new injectors yet, i was going to get 600cc and a fuel rail all in the 1 hit? thoughts?

i want about 250-270kw eventually, i wanna see how much i can get with out swapping out the turbos but want to eventually, maybe after my GTS-t sells.

what are my options jess?

thanks jess ;)

im pretty sure on its tune (about 10-11psi boost) ben said he rekons close to 210 maybe more, bens mechanic said it picks up faster than stock GTRs :P

nah i dont have new injectors yet, i was going to get 600cc and a fuel rail all in the 1 hit? thoughts?

i want about 250-270kw eventually, i wanna see how much i can get with out swapping out the turbos but want to eventually, maybe after my GTS-t sells.

what are my options jess?

yeah 210 sounds about right ;) Have you got an aftermarket ecu?

Fuel rail up to you , dont really need it :worship: Injectors yep 600cc would be fine..You wouldnt really need injectors until later either cause Jay and I are both running standard injectors still in our GTR's and getting the same power...

I have 300kws and didnt take me many mods to get there and that sort of power is lots of fun! The power FC was the main component that helped me get there!

Hmm do you know what turbos you have now? Mine are standard but pretty sure are steel wheeled so handling 1bar well

the ecu has got a mines sticker on the ECU so im pretty sure itll have a different fuel map, and yeh its not running stock boost about 10-11 is my guess :P

Oh that's right you told me at villies :worship: sorry!

My 2 cents: I would be worried about the ceramic turbos letting go (if they are ceramic)...So I would go turbo's first and then getting injectors, cams and stuff later and can up the boost and get more power out of it..

I only say that cause I have standard steel wheel turbos and have put the boost up to 1bar and getting 300 out of it with stock internals and minor mods like cam gears, catch can set up..I also love responsive turbos so have kept them on ans waiting for them to fail so can do next upgrage which will be going up to 350kws going garret turbos 2860 -5, injectors, bigger fuel pump (walbro) and drop in PonCams.

I dare say that the stock rb26 turbos can handle 10-11 psi, but its always better to be safe than to be sorry i guess.

Chad is still waiting for the turbos Steve!

Damo,

What turbos are you talking about?

Yeah the stock turbos can handle it but I just dont trust ceramic :worship: plus never know how long they have been on there for and what sort of life they have had??

can someone maybe point me in the right direction for info on the gtr turbo's??? ive got a set of 33 gtr ones in the shed and was lookin at having some work done to them and chuck em on with a list of other mods, or would i be better buying some HKS numbers???

**edit: ive come from the world of carbies so go easy lol

Edited by rhys5169

So turbos first hey? how bad are the stock GTR turbos? in the way of letting go? how can i get the steel wheel 1's? is there a way to do a conversion?

what about dumps and front? do that when i get new turbos?

*edit*

bens mechanical pulled the turbos off not too many kms ago to have a look and they are in good nick ;)

Edited by joeleo87
can someone maybe point me in the right direction for info on the gtr turbo's??? ive got a set of 33 gtr ones in the shed and was lookin at having some work done to them and chuck em on with a list of other mods, or would i be better buying some HKS numbers???

**edit: ive come from the world of carbies so go easy lol

Turbo Spec sheet

Google the part numbers on the turbo should be able to find out what they are..Or look on my spec sheet in the link...

To revamp them cost just as much to buy new...If in ok condition like no shaft play or noisey when spinning the inlet wheel chuck them up for sale and see what happens..But most are in the market for steel wheel turbos these days as the safer way to go ;)

Turbo Spec sheet

Google the part numbers on the turbo should be able to find out what they are..Or look on my spec sheet in the link...

To revamp them cost just as much to buy new...If in ok condition like no shaft play or noisey when spinning the inlet wheel chuck them up for sale and see what happens..But most are in the market for steel wheel turbos these days as the safer way to go ;)

i was told the 33 gtr turbo's had steel wheels??? (they came free with my car anyways).......

i just dont trust the ceramic so always looking for a way to avoid leaving them on there

So turbos first hey? how bad are the stock GTR turbos? in the way of letting go? how can i get the steel wheel 1's? is there a way to do a conversion?

what about dumps and front? do that when i get new turbos?

There not bad just limited to what you can do with them..Steel wheel are everywhere only stock R32, R33 and R34 had cermaic turbos all the rest on teh market are steel wheel now :) Its expensive to get them steel wheeled! But it is an option you can do!

Oh yep definately reccomend aftermarket dumps and front pipes...But dumps are a pain in teh arse to do so best to do it when you going to do turbo as well LOL..Not winning are we ! ;)

i was told the 33 gtr turbo's had steel wheels??? (they came free with my car anyways).......

i just dont trust the ceramic so always looking for a way to avoid leaving them on there

Check the numbers on the turbo..but could be N1 spec or have been steel wheel in standard housing in japan like mine ;)

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For DBA, check out their guide table here. https://dba.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2023/01/Direct_Replacement-Guide-2021.2.pdf   Additionally they have some other guides and info on how to make sure you choose the right pad.
    • Sorry, just assumed that talk of coloured pads meant EBC red/green/yellow/shit stuff. I don't know the DBA pads, but it's a reasonable bet that they will be OK. DBA make good stuff generally. Those 4000 series rotors I linked to are very good. I may well replace the RDA rotors I have with those when required.
    • The average previous owner for these cars were basically S-chassis owners in the US. Teenagers or teenager-adjacent. I often tell people that neglect is easier to fix than something that was actively "repaired" by previous owners.
    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
×
×
  • Create New...