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WOW!!! way to many posts on here today :whistling:

Its been 2 months since i paid for my turbo's, so a not so nice email is about to be sent to America :D

The rims on Damo's car at Autosalon are actually mine people, they go on my hilux, so dont worrie, they wont be going back on a skyline anytime soon :)

We've taken our cars to boostinoz for like 8 years (or ben has anyway in not that old yet haha) Dennis is fantastic. He'll look after you guys for sure. Joel, my stoopid phone wont send anymore msgs so in reply to your last text... "you'll do as your told or you can walk" LOL

yeah @ least youve chosen a good workshop Joel if Dennis cant sort you out then something is wrong

spewn Chad would of been quicker to learn quantam physics and prolly build your own :whistling:

Nene PM me your MSN ill add you when i get home or just add me >>Madaz's Hotmail<<

oh Luke can you keep one eye on that horn button i would like it if we can get it here shipped for $30-40 obviously the less the better :D

where can i find some decent mesh to fill the outer holes in my front bar??? ive tried autobarn and super cheaps but they only have SAAS stuff if electric blue and bright red and want like $35 per metre WTF!!!! i just want black or silver then ill spray it black...

cheers:)

so my carbon kick panels, door locks, door surrounds, gear surround, air con surround, steareo surround, window air con, steering wheel cluster and speedo suround is gonna give me like 400kws? sweet lol

stickers add 5 kw ea?

so if i get a shopping list on the side of either door

apex'i

greddy

nismo

etc etc, i should be seeing well over 300 rwkw right?

what about ''NISSAN RACING'' stickers, whats there average kw gains? :whistling:

Hey all!

Im still sick :) :)

How much would it suck if i was too sick to go on my own cruise? Lol.

It'd be pointless....you'd stop at the first stop and then be like "Sooooo.....what do we do for the next 15 minutes... :whistling: "

:D

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    • I myself AM TOTALLY UNPREPARED TO BELIEVE that the load is higher on the track than on the dyno. If it is not happening on the dyno, I cannot see it happening on the track. The difference you are seeing is because it is hot on the track, and I am pretty sure your tuner is not belting the crap out of it on teh dyno when it starts to get hot. The only way that being hot on the track can lead to real ping, that I can think of, is if you are getting more oil (from mist in the inlet tract, or going up past the oil control rings) reducing the effective octane rating of the fuel and causing ping that way. Yeah, nah. Look at this graph which I will helpfully show you zoomed back in. As an engineer, I look at the difference in viscocity at (in your case, 125°C) and say "they're all the same number". Even though those lines are not completely collapsed down onto each other, the oil grades you are talking about (40, 50 and 60) are teh top three lines (150, 220 and 320) and as far as I am concerned, there is not enough difference between them at that temperature to be meaningful. The viscosity of 60 at 125°C is teh same as 40 at 100°C. You should not operate it under high load at high temperature. That is purely because the only way they can achieve their emissions numbers is with thin-arse oil in it, so they have to tell you to put thin oil in it for the street. They know that no-one can drive the car & engine hard enough on the street to reach the operating regime that demands the actual correct oil that the engine needs on the track. And so they tell you to put that oil in for the track. Find a way to get more air into it, or, more likely, out of it. Or add a water spray for when it's hot. Or something.   As to the leak --- a small leak that cannot cause near catastrophic volume loss in a few seconds cannot cause a low pressure condition in the engine. If the leak is large enough to drop oil pressure, then you will only get one or two shots at it before the sump is drained.
    • So..... it's going to be a heater hose or other coolant hose at the rear of the head/plenum. Or it's going to be one of the welch plugs on the back of the motor, which is a motor out thing to fix.
    • The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
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    • Nice, looks great. Nice work getting the factory parts also. Never know when you'll need them.
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